While the picture-perfect beachfront resorts of the Indian Ocean may seem tame, the vibrant islands and cavernous ocean depths that sprawl out beyond them offer the opportunity to reconnect with the wild. By James Stewart
The beaches are as white as powdered sugar. Palm trees clack in tropical breezes and the ethereal-blue sea is bath-warm. Most visitors see the islands of the Indian Ocean as a destination to fly and flop. They book into a smart hotel beside a beautiful beach, perhaps snorkeling as a change of pace in a week of delicious torpor. Yet tourism is a relatively recent invention
hereabouts. The better way to understand these islands is as the destinations they were before someone dreamed up hotel buffet breakfasts — as home to approximately 30 percent of the world’s coral reefs. Take the Maldives. While its more than one
hundred atoll-resorts are bywords for luxury, the Maldivian coral reef systems are collectively the seventh largest and fifth-most biodiverse in the world. This is, notes marine conservation group the Blue Marine Foundation, ‘globally significant’. All hotels host dive centers for nearby sites — Manta Point near the Maldivian capital Malé and Madivaru reef off Kuramathi island are both excellent. Liveaboard dive boats can also tour atolls. However, no site compares to Hanifaru Bay.
This UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in Baa Atoll hosts manta rays, dolphins, turtles and around 1,200 species of fish year-round. During the monsoon season from June to November, a quirk of marine geography funnels plankton into the reef to create the largest manta-feeding hotspot in the world — schools of rays over 100-strong whirling in cyclone feeding frenzies. Usually, whale sharks join the feast. Adjacent resorts with reserve access get to experience one of the greatest marine adventures on the planet.