4 T e Travel Guide Welcome


What’s all this? T is is a sample selection of editorial content taken from National Geographic Traveller (UK) to help inspire your travels.


Who are we? National Geographic Traveller is a travel and lifestyle magazine packed full of you-are-there photography, authentic holiday experiences and inspiring narratives.


Where can I read more? Buy a magazine or go online. We always off er tasters of our latest issue: nationalgeographic.co.uk/ travel


Inside


Turkey T e Istanbul locale serving the city’s best brunch Page 5


Austria Ski season’s arrived on the Eastern Alps Page 6


Rome A guide to the Eternal City’s newest hotels Page 8


Amalfi Coast Plan a late-summer jaunt to southern Italy Page 10


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Promotional Content • Saturday 17 September 2022


Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in 1958, the Northumberland coast is a wildlife-lover’s paradise, where puffi ns skim the waters of the North Sea for sand eels and dolphins swim off Embleton Bay. Onshore, ringed plovers and sand lizards build nests in Northumberland’s dune-backed beaches, loomed over by castles such as Bamburgh and Alnwick: fortresses that speak of more turbulent times, when the area was of huge strategic importance when Northumberland was a battleground from 1400 to almost 1700. With the annals of history


explored, head to a pub for hearty fare and lively conversation, where menus typically revolve around regional fi sh and you’ll likely taste the best lobster of your life. Or simply wander the pretty streets of the little towns punctuating this wild coastline. Here’s how you can fi t all this and more into one weekend.


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Day one Morning:Walk the Pilgrims Way to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne: a great way to start the day, safe in the knowledge that the best coff ee in Northumberland is waiting at the other end of your hike. Park near T e Barn at Beal for the view — a vast, empty bay stretching away beneath a big sky — before following the


A weekend in Northumberland R


Rich in wildlife, with miles of empty beaches, picture-perfect seaside towns and a battle-fi lled history, the Northumberland coast is an area as beautiful as it is intriguing. Words: Charlotte Wigram-Evans


Dunstanburgh Castle, as seen from the dunes at Embleton Bay PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY


unning for 40 miles between Berwick-Upon- Tweed and Amble, and designated an Area of


wooden poles that mark the easy three-mile route. Organise a tour with Footsteps in Northumberland, which tells a fascinating story of the Viking invasions.


Afternoon: Heading south along the coast, pause for a crab salad or fennel-stuff ed sea bream at T e Potted Lobster on Bamburgh high street. T en it’s time for some royal history at nearby Bamburgh Castle. Rising gloriously from the beach, the 1,400-year-old fortress is the stuff of fairytales. Home to a long line of kings, from Henry VI to James I, it’s a maze of echoing halls, grand boudoirs and hidden guardrooms. Allow at least an hour to explore the


nine-acre site, opting for an audio- guide to really bring the past to life.


Evening:Winters can be bitter here, and summers temperamental, but the all-too British weather has meant locals have perfected their pubs, and there’s no shortage of them to be found along the coastline. Head to T e Jolly Fisherman in Craster, a short hop from Bamburgh, where worn leather sofas encircle an open fi replace, views stretch out to sea and chef Kevin Mulraney serves gastropub grub with standout crab dishes. T e village also lays claim to the best kippers on the coast: family-run L Robson & Sons has been curing fi sh for four generations and sells a selection of smoked seafood from a wooden hut on the harbour


Day two Morning:More than 30 islands lie off Northumberland’s coast. Best known are the Farnes, but Coquet Island, at the southern tip of the AONB, is closer to the mainland and quieter in peak season. Adventure Northumberland off ers guided kayak trips around Coquet’s remote, wind-swept shores where you can spot seals in their hundreds. Largely uninhabited, the island is a crucial site for seabirds, too; 40,000 jostle for nesting space in summer, so sightings of puffi ns and roseate terns are guaranteed.


Seahouses Harbour PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY


Afternoon: Earl Grey is sipped the world over, but few know it was


invented at Howick Hall. Meander up the coast to visit the magnifi cent Georgian manor where, in 1830, Earl Charles Grey added bergamot to his tea leaves, off setting the lime from water in Howick’s well and creating the blend we know today. Walk the hall’s wonderful gardens, spanning 65 acres, before sitting down to a good old-fashioned cream tea. Alternatively, adrenaline junkies can head 20 minutes back to the sea, where Adventure Northumberland runs coasteering expeditions to explore this dramatic stretch of shoreline, full of hidden coves and rocky outcrops.


Evening: In the heart of Alnmouth, a pocket-sized village with a couple of pubs, a delicatessen and a gift shop selling local pottery, don’t miss T e Whittling House. Whether you’re staying at the boutique hotel or not, dinner here is a must. Try plump, tender scallops surrounded by an indulgent amount of garlic butter, and just-caught lobster, grilled to perfection with a truffl e and parmesan crumb. Afterwards, head next door to T e Red Lion Inn. Nightlife on the coast is fairly non-existent , but the pubs like the Hadrian Border Brewery are good fun.


First published in the July/August 2022 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Read the feature in full online at nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel


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