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What is Southern Sandstone?


Unusual, specific skills are required to access, protect and enjoy the Southern Sandstone crags on the borders of Kent and East Sussex, the capital’s nearest real rock climbing areas. These sandstone outcrops are softer than virtually any other climbable rock so climbers must be extremely careful to protect it from unnecessary erosion and damage to ensure they last to be enjoyed for many years to come. Southern Sandstone comprises of a thin weathered crust covering lightly compacted sand. Once the crust has been worn away, rapid erosion occurs. Due to the delicate rock, the only styles of climbing you can do here are soloing, bouldering and top-roping – don't use trad gear!


How to protect Southern Sandstone: Approaching and moving around the crag


Here we have examples of how to set up and equalised top rope anchors on two


bolts with a sling. Note that here the sling is long enough that the central point hangs over the edge, which is essential to prevent wear from the moving climbing rope. In some cases, you will need to extend the central point to ensure it hangs over the edge of the crag, (as in the one of these photos).


Use the established paths to access and reach the top of crags; step on rock rather than earth where possible and avoid trampling on vegetation. A number of methods can be used to reach the top of isolated pinnacles including soloing if confident, stepping across from above, being belayed across from above using an anchor on the main crag or by using a long rigging rope to extend the moving climbing rope over the edge of the pinnacle for the first climber. Check out the Southern Sandstone video series on BMC TV YouTube channel for a demonstration of how to access southern sandstone pinnacles.


Climbing


Top roping and soloing are the only ways to climb here. Don't use any sort of leader protection and most importantly clean the soles of your shoes before starting each climb. This prevents loose sand and dirt being carried up the climb by your soles, which will be ground into footholds under your bodyweight and cause unneeded erosion to the rock.


Moving or stretching ropes should never come into contact with the rock. The


sawing action destroys the weathered crust and cuts deep grooves in the top of the crag. Keep chalk to a minimum and avoid cleaning holds, but if you have to, use a cloth to hit the holds and knock off loose sand and chalk. If this still doesn’t work, a very soft brush can be used sparingly, but toothbrushes or the like need not apply – they are far too abrasive.


Descending


When you have finished a climb, don't lower off – walk off. On isolated buttresses which cannot be accessed from above by stepping across from the main crag, all members of a party except the last should down-climb on a slack rope. The last member can either solo down if confident or be belayed by throwing a long rigging rope across the top of the pinnacle from an anchor on the main crag, with a locking carabiner tied to the end and a climbing rope fed through it. The last climber is then belayed down with a slack rope, the climbing rope is pulled down and the rigging rope can be retrieved from above once everyone is finished. Please do not abseil at any Southern Sandstone crag. The top of the crag and the fragile holds on the face will be damaged. In any case, abseiling is not permitted by the owners of Eridge Green, Harrison’s, High Rocks or Stone Farm.


READ:


Southern Sandstone Guidelines www.thebmc.co.uk/southern-sandstone-guidelines


WATCH: Respect The Rock – Southern Sandstone Bouldering www.thebmc.co.uk/southern-sandstone-bouldering WATCH: Respect The Rock – Southern Sandstone Top Roping www.thebmc.co.uk/southern-sandstone-top-roping


SUMMIT#103 | AUTUMN 2021 | 57


PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK.


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