IN THE B A G
Steve McClure, TRAD CLIMBER
S
teve is best known for his sport climbing, and for his first ascents of Rainman (9b), Overshadow (9a+), Mutation (9a+?) and Northern Lights (9a). However, he’s also pretty handy on the trad: “I consider myself first and foremost a traditional climber. It’s how I
got into climbing with my parents from a really young age (leading at about age 8 or 9) and I’ve continued to enjoy it over my entire climbing life.” Steve has made ascents of routes like Rhapsody (E11), Choronzon (E10) and GreatNess Wall (E10), and this year made a trad ascent of Neil Gresham’s DWS route, Olympiad (E10).
What is trad climbing all about? It’s taking on the full challenge of what nature has set before us. There are no bolts, so just as you have to figure out how to climb using whatever holds the rock offers, you must also use what nature provides to protect yourself from falling. It’s up to you to find the placements and judge how good they are.
What do you like about it? For me, it’s the ultimate form of climbing as there is so much going on mentally as well as physically, especially when you are pushing yourself. As well as everything that is wrapped up in performance climbing, such as figuring out the moves and energy conservation, there has to be an additional acute awareness of where protection is, how good it is, and continued risk assessment.
What’s the best trad route you’ve climbed? Nightmayer (E8) on the Cromlech in Llanberis Pass. I’d had my eye on it for years. Initially it was way out
of my league but over the years everything eventually fell into place. All my climbing experience had to come together in one moment. To get so close to the limit was something I’ll never forget. And to have climbed a route of such quality in one of my favourite places is incredibly special.
What are your current goals? I’ve got two. Firstly, more onsighting in Pembroke. You can’t beat the mix of amazing climbing and then chilling with friends around a campfire on the beach. I’m also psyched to try to headpoint (practicing the route before a lead, as opposed to onsighting) some hard routes in the Lakes. Neil Gresham has been busy and left a number of excellent challenges that I’m really drawn towards repeating.
How has the pandemic changed your climbing over the past 18 months? It’s why I’m more motivated for trad climbing than ever. The lack of foreign travel has meant that I’m here and
drawn to explore and experience the best that Britain has to offer. Though we have some amazing sport climbing, I’ve done a fair bit of that. Now I want to be out in these wild open spaces, taking in the view and appreciating what we have.
What are the best locations for trad? Britain has some of the finest trad in the world, with enormous variation and something for every style and ability. Peak Gritstone offers excellent solid rock that takes bomb-proof protection in cracks and breaks, while the mountains of the Lakes and North Wales have a real out-there feel. But it’s Britain’s sea cliffs that stand out on a world scale. Pembroke, Gogarth, Devon and Cornwall are all simply incredible for their full-value trad experience.
Is there a trad climb that you’d love to get on, but haven’t yet?
I’m psyched to look at Echo Wall up on Ben Nevis. This huge route climbed by Dave Macleod way back in 2008 has been totally ignored since his first ascent. Hardly surprising considering the immense walk-in, the difficult conditions and the prospect of F8c climbing in a death fall position, not to mention the dreaded Scottish midges, but it’s a likely contender for the hardest trad route in the world.
steve-mcclure.com SUMMIT#103 | AUTUMN 2021 | 15
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