CLIMB SKILLS


SS ANCHORS T


The way we all use bolted anchors in the Southern Sandstone area is changing.


he current system of a main bolt (which takes all of the load), secured to a backup bolt with a swaged steel cable, has been used on Southern Sandstone for


30 years or more. However, updated expert advice has recommended to change to both bolts equalised to a central point, in line with standard practice elsewhere. It is not possible to equalise the bolts


with in situ equipment in a way that is both strong and will not cause damage to the rock, so you will now need to


equalise both bolts as part of your top- rope setup. In the short term, all swaged wire backups will be removed from bolted sandstone anchors as soon as possible. Additional bolts will be placed where needed at Harrison’s and Stone Farm Rocks as part of an ongoing BMC program of renewing and updating bolted anchors. You should arrive with equipment to


allow you to equalise the double bolt anchors to a central point. There are many ways of doing this but the most


common and easiest is to use either a sling or rigging rope with screw gates on each bolt. Remember to extend the anchor point sufficiently to prevent your climbing rope from wearing the rock. It’s a good idea to use rope protectors over any rigging to prevent damage to slings/ropes and the rock from normal movement whilst belaying.


The BMC would like to thank and


acknowledge DMM for their assistance with testing.


56 | CLIMB. WALK. JOIN.


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