66 | SANTORINI SUNSETS
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SENSATIONAL SANTORINI
Heidi McAlpin revisits the shores of Santorini eighteen years after her dreamy sunset nupitals. From Fira Town, a boat trip around the caldera, and a day trip to Folegandros, Heidi explores the family- friendly side to the popular Greek holiday destination...
to fully explore oh-so- special Santorini. Walking along the pedestrian caldera path is a daily excursion
that BY HEIDI MCALPIN
WAY back in the mists of time, I said ‘I do’ to my significant other against a dreamy Santorini sunset. Fast forward 18 years, and we were long overdue a return trip to the scene of our very own Greek wedding. Santorini remains a popular pick for destination nuptials, but what about families with older teens in tow? Much like the donkeys carting cruise ship passengers up and down its steep cliffs, could this idyllic isle carry the burden of our demanding family of four? The croissant-shaped Cycladic stunner is the jewel in the crown of all Greek islands. White stone houses reflect the searing summer sun, while trailing pink bougainvillea and blue- domed churches dapple the landscape with their vibrant hues. And in the middle of this rocky crescent sits the dormant volcano whose steamy bursts serve as a reminder of its unpredictable powers. Santorini was formed following a massive volcanic eruption around 1600 BC. And though seismic activity was recorded as recently as February, hordes of undeterred holidaymakers continue to add it to their ‘must-see’ bucket list. A steady stream of island- based tourists just about balances the flotilla of cruise ships disgorging day- trippers in their droves. Much like Venice, Dubrovnik and Barcelona, Santorini is now suffering
from overtourism. Every year its 15,500 population is dwarfed by a mind-blowing 3.4million visitors, each jostling for space - and that perfect photo – within a mere 30 square miles. When the cruise ships depart, however,
the island can breathe a little bit easier. Which is why we decided to stay five nights on the caldera - aka volcano - side before taking a short ferry trip to the much quieter island of Folegandros before ending our stay back on Santorini’s beach side. This truly is an island of two halves but
it’s the one-thousand-feet sheer drop from bustling Fira town to the placid Aegean Sea that has tourists spellbound. When imagining an iconic Greek scene, this dramatic vista must surely be it. It was the scene that greeted us almost two decades since our wedding, just as mesmeric and gorgeous as ever. I knew my 18-year-old daughter would
be enchanted by Santorini’s bouji vibe, but even her younger brother couldn’t help but be wowed with the spectacular views. Ever-present iconic Greek cats added the ‘aww’ factor to this ancient yet opulent isle. Our first base was the delightful
and affordable Ersi Villas, a cluster of Cycladic-style studios set in a verdant garden oasis and featuring a cool pool overlooking the sea. The room itself was basic but ample for our needs, and that stunning caldera view and bustling Fira town were within scenic walking distance. Holiday book unpacked and Factor 50 slathered on, it was time to relax in the sun before venturing out
never disappoints. As day gives way to night, Fira town dazzles and everyone stops for a sparkly selfie. Flat shoes are a prerequisite as you navigate the town’s mesmerising meld of tacky souvenir shops, luxury boutiques and lots and lots of restaurants and bars. Locals know what the tourists want, and the Greek Wedding Show provides a plate- smashing night
of
family-friendly fun, food and drink. Tempting as it was, though, daughter Scarlett and I opted for Volkan on the Rocks restaurant whose
join in, blissfully unaware of their off-key warblings. What a hoot! Another must-do activity is taking a boat trip around that famous caldera. Plenty of companies offer all sorts of sailings, ranging in price and duration. Our pick was
a £90pp Santorini View catamaran sunset tour including delicious barbeque and a happy party atmosphere.
Hotel collection and drop-offs added to the easy-going atmos. We swam in the hot springs close to the volcano, then sailed past Akrotiri Lighthouse before taking more dips at Red and White Beaches, named for their distinctly colourful cliffs.
Santorini’s open-air
cinema has a nightly screening of, what else, Mamma Mia!. And what a treat it was watching Meryl, Pierce and pals sing and dance their way through a smorgasbord of Abba hits as the sun descended over the caldera. The funniest bit, though, was slipping off our headphones to hear fellow viewers
famous Oia sunset signalled the end of our blissfully indulgent five-hour trip. Back at base, we slumped into bed with happy memories of a wonderful experience. The great thing about being in Santorini for several days is not having to shoehorn all the sights into a short stay - or
cruise stop. And knowing we were returning for five final nights by the beach meant our caldera stay was a relaxing blend of poolside slumbers by day and Greek meals by night followed
September/October 2025
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