32 | ST PATRICKS IN SYDNEY
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SYDNEY STRUTS THE GREEN
January 2026
only Irish on board were convicts. Today the Irish had taken over. Everyday tourists from round the world, looking chilled but baffled, were taking pictures; some had raided souvenir shops in the Rocks. Others, disgorged from a giant cruise ship, were sucked towards the food tents, (drawn by the promise of spud bread and sodas, or bags of cheese ‘n’ onion crisps, and baps over-stuffed with sticky, juicy, carmelised sausages and onions), while Tippin’ Trad were making merry on the main stage and all around us a tide of Guinness was coming in like an Irish tsunami..
Tom Adair concludes his East Coast Aussie Adventure by experiencing St Patrick’s Day in Sydney where new experiences collide with fond childhood memories...
BY TOM ADAIR
MY Downpatrick granny, who lived on the Shankill for much of her life, was 44 when Northern Ireland came into existence. Proudly Loyalist--fervently Irish--every St Patrick’s Day she would sport a fistful of Shamrock to regale us with tales of “the drowning of the Shamrock” during her childhood, when the plant would be soaked in whiskey “to toast Paddy’s health”. I know she’d have cheered my trip in March this year to Sydney, to see the St Paddy’s events Down Under. “Green with envy” I can almost hear her say, but she’d have protested at the street parade being held on March 16th to fit in with the weekend. “No good will come of it,” she’d have spluttered—and been wrong. For there stood ‘Himself’ in flowing green robes and fancy mitre, gripping his crozier, looking donnish, while slightly squinting through bifocals (searching for
On the ‘Order of Events’ was listed Irish classes, face painting sessions, a ‘Lookalike Contest’
searching for ‘Saoirse Ronan and
snakes?) the woman beside him furtively eyeing up his
sandals and well-turned
ankle as the rallying crowd in Sydney’s Martin Place, jostled into position, sporting greenery top to toe.
Bruise-coloured clouds were threatening
rain, but the Aus s i e - b lue sky came fighting back, casting like
spear- shafts
of sunlight between
tips of Sydney’s high rise. along
the All
Pitt
Street towards the Harbour people gripping tiny tricolours leaned of
out
awaiting action.
windows the
Then
it happened: a blast of bagpipes. The City of Campbeltown kilty band stepping off perjinkly, (as the Scots say), Yer Man behind them, sedately acknowledging the punters, a flow of humanity of incongruous variety: clowns, Irish dancing squads, Molly Malone displaying her wares, spectres on stilts,
pursued by The Golden Kangaroos Marching Band, a phalanx of twirling batons and fluffy pom-poms, kids wearing face paint, green, white,
orange, and Aboriginals sporting white body stripes and First Nations tribal headgear.
All down Pitt Street an ocean of smiles went trooping past the now static traffic, a flurry of flags and periscoped smart-phones, police, unable to resist it all, tapping their feet. Scotland skirled
the through
Brave the
air from the pipes of the City of Sydney Police Band.
The
City of Camplelltown pipes replied with Let Erin Remember. Call it parity of esteem. Stirred into action I
sensed the party getting ready in First Fleet Park for the afternoon’s fun at Circular Quay. “Get into line,” I said to granny. I think she smiled as we followed the buzz. The parade rolled on. The Travelling
Tavern, propelled by pedal power, serving drinks. High-stepping kids from the Kennedy School of Irish Dancing. Blokes in green toppers and fake
ginger beards, waving
placards on which was blazoned ‘Kiss Me, I’m Irish’, green umbrellas keeping time to a rousing rendition of Black Velvet Band. “Can that be right!” I said to Granny, for there, parading far ahead of us, like twin hallucinations,
bringing Disney to the
festivities, were Mickey and Minnie Mouse. “Have you been secretly hittin’ the bottle, Son?” I may have heard her mutter. Or was it “Slainte”? No Irish cliché was left unturned. First Fleet Park, a small grassy enclave with views of the Opera House and Bridge, was filling up quickly. Its name harks back to January 1788 when 12 British naval ships (the ‘First Fleet’) sailed through the Heads from the Coral Sea and claimed the territory in the name of King George the Third. The
and chips.” for
snifter,
Dressed like that he could hardly slip out a
quiet but
as the revelry c on ti nu ed , fiddles blazing, pints being tipped and dusk approaching,
I
fancied a walk and a chance to witness the celebrations from the Harbour.
“I’ll
show you a view of secret Sydney,”
I
whispered to granny.
caught the ‘Charlotte’
We at
Circular Quay, for the one-stop ride to Milsons Point near Luna Park, a heritage funfair and Harbourside icon no tourist should miss. Of course, you guessed it! I had to drag her from the lure of the helter-skelter, past
Paul Mescal lookalikes’; there’d be hula hoop displays and more Irish dancing than you could ever shake a shillelagh at, and music, continuous jigs and reels and hornpipes. Non-stop gorging of the senses. I spotted St Patrick by the flap of the Paddy the Baker tent, looking hungry, probably craving snake
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