September/October 2024
VERY VARANASI | 23
Rather than being macabre, it seemed like more of a celebration of life. The river was also full of bathers and swimmers, some no-doubt cleansing their sins, and others simply cooling down in the extreme afternoon heat, as the air filled with the scents of incense, sandalwood and ceremonial marigold petals.
The BrijRama Palace is a former residence,
royal built in
1812 and sensitively restored to something beyond its former glory, preserving both its rich heritage and providing a luxurious experience for guests. It’s one of the oldest, most beautiful and impressive buildings on the banks of the river, situated on its very own Darbhanga Ghat, and is regarded as the city’s best place to stay. Upon arrival, we were welcomed with a cold towel and a refreshing non-alcoholic drink. In accordance with local religious tradition, no alcohol or meat is served at the hotel, but the alternatives were never a
disappointment. We took advantage of the palace’s many activities, including a 4.30am boat ride to the daily sunrise celebration, complete with evil spirit-dispersing bell-ringing, dancing, singing and the provision of seven gifts of light to the river, which get progressively brighter as the ceremony proceeds, ending with lighting a floating candle which
we
placed in the river. There was a charge
small for
the trip to the dawn worship, and I always recommend booking tours via good hotels, especially in India, as you can be guaranteed of their quality. Some other of
the hotel’s chargeable activities include a temple tour, a culinary
walk, and a city tour through the warren of narrow alleys. But many of the hotel’s other attractions are complimentary. The following morning, I enjoyed a 6am, hour-long, free yoga session on the outdoor terrace, stretching and holding poses as the sun rose over the Ganges. It was just one of many special Varanasi memories I will never forget. Also free for guests was high tea
in the afternoon, which my husband and I looked forward to each day, and where we had the opportunity to enjoy sweet treats and more substantial local recipes, washed down with freshly- made masala tea, to the melodic accompaniment of a musician on the sitar.
I also took advantage of the pottery- making session, trying my hand at the wheel with surprisingly good results, and also the astrologer session, where I had my palm read. The food, particularly breakfast, in the Darbhanga Restaurant was amongst the best Indian food I have tasted, while our accommodation in the Varuna Burj Suite featured a spectacular 180 degree view of the river.
Another highlight was our complimentary boat trip at dusk to the Ganga Arti, where, every evening, hundreds of spectators gather on the Ghats and in small boats to witness Hindu priests perform an elaborate ceremony of blessing and thanksgiving. During our short stay in Varanasi, we made memories to last a lifetime and, while our inevitable departure after such an amazing and spiritual experience was difficult, I knew that our next destination of Agra, and the Taj Mahal, would compensate for the sadness of leaving Varanasi behind.
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