14 | CARCATION - PART 1


www.nitravelnews.com England Family Carcation


September/October 2024


Heidi McAlpin and family take to the road for a history- steeped two- week trip through England. In part one of three, they board the Stena ship to Birkenhead and start heading south...


YOU can travel all over the world and miss out on the proud heritage and joyous landscape that’s right next door. I’m talking, of course, about England – land of hope, glory and mile after mile of quaint villages, centuries-old buildings and stunning scenery. And so, with two weeks of all this and more on our agenda, it was time to start our English adventure with a Stena day sailing from Belfast to Birkenhead. It’s the perfect way to start this type of


trip. You can pack the car with as much as you like and not have to worry about budget- busting baggage allowance or eye-watering car hire costs. Even better, treat yourself to an en suite cabin and access to the Stena Lounge and those eight hours will simply whizz by. Me, husband Ray and teenage kids Scarlett (17) and Freddie (14) had enjoyed a similar trip post-covid, so this felt the perfect moment to explore England anew.


Shrewsbury Townhouse is a charming two-bedroom red-brick terrace within easy walking distance of the town centre and blessed with that all-important free parking. A cosy living room, modern kitchen, separate dining room and luxurious bathroom provided plenty of space for us parents and the teens. A stroll across the river for a gluttonous feed at Hickory’s Smokehouse had us moseying happily home for a well- earned night’s kip. The sun shone on our first full day in Shrewsbury long enough to get lost in little lanes and learn more about its most famous native, Sir Charles Darwin. A larger-than- life statue of the father of evolution sits proudly outside the library while the Darwin Shrewsbury Trail invites you to delve deeper into the life and times of the town’s most lauded son. The Theory of Relativity author was inspired by the geology of nearby Quarry Park where visitors can revel in views of the river where boat trips showcase everything from Victorian Shrewsbury Prison to the distinctive round tower of St. Chad’s Church where Darwin was baptised. After all that sightseeing, The Market


Hall was beckoning with over 60 traders dishing up all manner of local and global culinary delights. A delightful way to end our Shrewsbury stay before hitting the road for dreamy Oxford.


The brilliant thing about England is the proximity of divine destinations. A mere two hours and 15 minutes’ drive south and we had arrived at this centre of academic excellence.


Oxford’s historic heart is


everything you imagine it to be. Its instantly recognisable streetscape conjures up images of Inspector Morse with a hint of Harry Potter and generous sprinkling of our very own CS Lewis. The Chronicles of Narnia scribe studied at University College, Oxford and was one of the famous Inklings literary group


locations also attributed to this enduring tome…


One of the fascinating facts about Oxford University is that it is made up of over thirty hugely competitive colleges. You only have to watch University Challenge to see the inter-college rivalry in full swing. And, much like Cambridge, the gown v town vibe is ever present as locals and students find a happy way to co-share this special space. One such place where everyone congregates is Oxford Covered Market, an epicurean emporium which, in 2024, marked its 250th anniversary. A welcome sip of the local brew – and savoury crepes for the kids – had us refuelled and ready for a trip to the slammer. The Oxford Castle & Prison Tour brings one thousand years of bone-chilling history to life courtesy of well-versed costumed guides. After a tight squeeze up the narrow stone steps of St. George’s Tower for sweeping city views, we descended into the bowels of the creepy crypt then crept past spooky cells that homed all manner of criminals. All ages can enjoy this quirky attraction, a part of which has been converted into a gorgeous looking Malmaison Hotel.


Our own Oxford overnight was a couple


- strained purse strings. The Palace was eventually completed and has been the home of the Dukes of Marlborough ever since. Today visitors can explore many of its ornate rooms including the one where baby Winston entered the world. An equally enchanting Chapel and extensive gardens continued


the charm offensive as we


immersed ourselves in this stunning estate. A quick trip on the miniature train revealed yet more hidden treasures with a walled garden, butterfly house, maze and an adventure playground perfect for younger explorers. Decorative fountains and a Great Lake lent a cool aquatic air to the stone exterior, while the huge courtyard served up a restaurant, café and one of the most lusciously stocked gift shops I have ever seen. An exhibition on the life and career of Winston Churchill presented the perfect final stop at this supersized attraction that really did live up to the hype.


of miles – and easy bus journey – from the city; this is most definitely a city for cyclists and not car drivers. Set in leafy surroundings, the Mercure


Oxford Hawkwell House


celebrates the city’s sartorial successes, with natty shirts, pin stripe motifs and Oxford Brogue designs dominating its bright décor. Adjoining bedrooms provided that much- needed generation gap that can make family holidays so much more relaxing. If you have teenagers (or parents) you’ll know what I’m talking about.


Once docked, evening commute saw us arrive at


a seamless 80-minute the


medieval market town of Shrewsbury. Enfolded in a curve of the River Severn, our first stop oozes charm with its cobbled streets and Tudor façades evoking centuries of stories. Though the heaven’s opened, we could still appreciate its olde world vibe as we stood in The Square, gazing up at those buildings and admiring a tempting curation of cute cafes and bouji boutiques. For now, though, it was time to check out our first accommodation.


alongside his chum JRR Tolkien. Now there’s a book club and a half.


With plenty of studying of our own to get


stuck into, we embarked on an Oxford Official University & City Walking Tour with a quite engaging former student whose joy for his alma mater had me quite dewy-eyed. He even showed us Belfastians a lamppost and lion-carved door said to have inspired the magical realm of Narnia. I didn’t dare bring up Cambell College’s lamppost and the lion doorknob on St. Mark’s Church, East Belfast


From prison to palace, the following day was poised as a holiday highlight… and boy did it deliver. A 20-minute drive brought us to magnificent Blenheim Palace, birthplace and ancestral seat of Winston Churchill and a building of quite mesmerising grandeur. Having visited many grand houses, nothing I have ever seen can quite compare to that jaw-dropping first glimpse of Blenheim. It is, after all, one of England’s largest houses and a UNESCO World Heritage Site to boot. Self-guided tours explain how this baroque masterpiece came to be. The Palace was a present from Queen Anne to the 1st Duke of Marlborough following his emphatic victory at the Battle of Blenheim. Construction spanned the early 1700s until the original architect’s pompous plans grew a tad too costly for even the Queen’s – and state’s


Our time in Oxford ended with a trip on the City Sightseeing Open Top Bus, including a climb to the top of Carfax Tower, a photo op at the famous Bridge of Sighs, another climb to the top of the Sheldonian Theatre and a peek inside the sweet shop that inspired Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland. After our energetic morning, an enchanting Oxford River Cruise Afternoon Tea was a fitting way to say our final farewell. This


delightful boat trip follows the


university regatta course, and it was a joy passing the occasional oarsman so synonymous with the world-famous Oxford- Cambridge Boat Race. Just another bucket list moment in the city of dreaming spires – and the perfect ending after three days that will live long in the memory as the sun sets on our Oxford experience. Next on our two-week trip, Heidi and family visit the cathedral city of Winchester and spend three nights on the Isle of Wight.


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