30 | GO EAST: JAPAN PART 1


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to get up to this – not something I think everyone on the tour realised but most made it. The view was stunning marred only by some stubborn cloud sticking to the top of Mount Fuji. The view is iconic, and we were all pleased to have had the opportunity to experience it.


Onwards to our next viewing point – ’Saiko Iyashi no sato Nenba’–


a


rebuilt traditional small village from the past. Rebuilt, because like others it was destroyed by mudslides torrenting down the hillside.


If


continued from page 29... The morning started early, ensuring that I got to the tour starting point with plenty of time to spare as it was pretty much the other side of Tokyo. The early train ride meant that the train was busy with commuters and school children of all ages alike. It was just north of 7am and most children were travelling by themselves across the city to their schools including those of mid/older primary age. They were all immaculately dressed in their smart uniforms including hats for the youngest – I reflected to myself that this says so much about Japanese culture and their respect for hard work and desire to do well, even from the youngest of ages.


What a beautiful morning it was with not a cloud in the sky and as I looked upwards, I saw a shining moon still visible between two high rise office blocks. Anyhow I thought it boded well for seeing Mount Fuji!


I would normally do trips such as this under my own steam but had decided to pre- book a sightseeing trip as I had heard from a couple of others that whilst you can connect to the area easily by train, getting around the area by bus can be more challenging because of demand / frequency.


It took about 1.5 hours to get to the area and as we approached in our coach, our guide told us to look up as we gained our first sight of Mount Fuji – a towering expanse of physical presence with the top clearly visible and the clouds hanging around the middle almost like a skirt.


Our guide warned us that this could change by the minute, something I am familiar with having seen the ‘tablecloth’ role over Table Mountain in Cape Town in literally seconds. Onwards we went to our first viewing stop at the Chureito Pagoda built in 1963 as a peace memorial and part of the Arakura Sengen Shrine. We had 400 challenging steps


b e


you like, it is a version of our ‘Folk Museum’ in Belfast. Each thatched house was either a museum or housed


a craft


worker selling items made on the premises.


One


housed costume wear and a number of people took the opportunity to don Kimonos or Samurai Warrior outfits complete with swords adding to the experience.


Unfortunately Mount Fuji and the clouds wouldn’t play ball. There were times when we thought clearings would develop only to


dashed by yet more clouds.


There were two more stops along the lakeside but unfortunately no improvement! But we had seen her and whether partly cloud covered or not she was still magnificent! According to our tour guide the best time to see her completely clear of cloud is in the winter but even then, there is no guarantee! We headed back to Shinjuku bus station, and I thought being in the vicinity, I would drop into the Golden Gai district, an institution for over 50 years, where a multitude of small bars (some which only holding a handful of people) sit side by side. It is renowned as being a gathering spot for artists, writers and musicians and is bohemian / eclectic in nature. Word has it that some bars will refuse entry, waiting for their regulars. As I arrived there was unfortunately a potential fire emergency unfolding in one building


and the area was swarming with fire engines – just my luck but I am determined to visit tomorrow before I leave Tokyo on Thursday for Nagoya.


I headed back to RyoGoku, where my hotel is situated and started searching which true Japanese eatery I was going to venture into tonight. Armed only with Google translate for the menu displayed outside and which restaurants were occupied by the locals, I happened to stubble across the most amazing pork restaurant …. that description really doesn’t do it justice … the food was exceptional quality …. basically, lean pork finished with various added ingredients in crispy panko breadcrumbs. And what value for money – my whole meal including 2 drinks was £18. Whilst I was there, not only did a sizeable queue build up outside, but I also lost count of the locals coming in to collect their takeaway. It also turned out that they had a perfect English menu inside and spoke good English as well – so be brave and you will reap the benefits of amazing Japanese hospitality! Restaurant is Tonkatsu Hasegawa – 3 Chome-24-1 Ryogoku


On my way home tonight, I gained yet further insight into the amazing Japanese culture. I needed some water for the room and the nearest shop was actually a wine shop, but it had water and soft drinks, so I ventured in. Buying my water, I looked at the prices of the wines which ranged from reasonable to very expensive for Champagnes etc – up to several hundred pounds. As I rounded the corner toward the till, I realised that the shop was unmanned with a self-service till. For a moment I doubted myself, and whilst clearly there were cameras etc it dawned on me that where else in the world that you would get this level of honesty, trust and respect … only in Japan!


Today I started by visiting Electric Town in the Akihabara district.


This is area of Tokyo were all the electronics retailers and resellers are focused. It is also an area where ‘Anime’ (Japanese Animation) lives loud and proud. The electronic stores are slightly overwhelming – floors upon floors of goods but mainly phones,


cameras, laptops and


tablets. All the latest models are there often being released first in Japan. There is great value to be had compared to the prices we would be used to in the UK/ Ireland, but you would have to keep your whits about you to ensure that you get the right model and conformity. Some of the smaller store’s focus on specific aspects of electronics such as components or gaming and in these you could pick up some real bargains in terms of reconditioned items – I guess if you would have to be happy taking a chance on these as you wouldn’t be easily able to act on any guarantee. Cameras & lens seemed to be where the most purchasing was being done – people perhaps making specific trips to buy long desired equipment. One trader in older / collector type cameras and parts seemed to be doing roaring trade with people round his stall, every time I Iooked.


On the anime side of things there were stores focused on costumes, stores focused on anime figures and anime toys, and anime art exhibitions. The biggest surprise of all was the stores seemingly packed with ‘pick and grab machines’ filled with anime soft toys. Endless machines and some stores on multiple floors all with the same thing – pick and grab/try your luck machines. These places weren’t empty – filled with locals and tourists alike – like Blackpool on steroids. After not having made it to Golden Gai the


day before, I decided that I had to visit before leaving Tokyo. I started however in a place called ‘Omoide Yokocho’ which translates as ‘Piss Alley’. This area beside the train tracks became popular after the war when an open- air market formed there and on the back of this it became an illicit drinking area packed


November/December 2023


with bars. There were no toilets in the area, so revellers were forced to relive themselves on the tracks… hence its name. It’s a great place to visit and still has an authentic feeling despite having to be rebuilt in 1999 after a fire. You will be glad to know that there are now toilets in place! This place is focused on drinking and the food offerings are mainly Yakitori (grilled meat Skewers) and Nikomi (beef tendon stew). I found that a lot of the Yakitori being offered stayed true to the origins of the food that would have been traditionally sold here – offal & cheaper cuts of meat (you can of course get more standard offerings). I was a little conservative my choices, but I did have liver, chicken wing and leek, as well as Pork neck and garlic stem – they were all delicious. There is definitely a great vibe, and the place gets busy very quickly. I would add that the locals eat here so it is not just a tourist trap.


Onwards to Golden Gai and it’s 300 bars. Nothing could have prepared me for what I experienced. I loved every minute of it. Imagine installing a bar in your front room and putting several bar stools along it and a tiny toilet in the corner. Often you to have to move down up to ensure that your host maximises capacity and when anyone wants to use the facilities you may have to get up again. My first host was very welcoming. She gave me a warm towel, served a small dish of homemade chicken and pickles and encouraged conversation with the other guests as best we could. On to the next one – very similar only this was more a regular’s bar as they were allowed to store their own


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