grand voyage W
e call it vomit fruit,” says my guide Thang, as he hands me a piece of slippery,
lemon-coloured flesh that looks like an anaemic mango and smells like a spring onion. “You’ll either love it or hate it.” I’m pleasantly surprised. To me it
tastes sweet and juicy, like a Tutti Frutti with the texture of a dried-up peach, and I’m soon going in for a second helping of durian, southeast Asia’s most controversial fruit – so pungent it’s banned from hotels. Others in the group are less keen, claiming it tastes like sick. I capitalise and take their portions.
LOCAL DELICACIES
I’m at a farm in My An Hung, a rural village on the Mekong Delta, sampling freshly picked produce – white, fleshy
coconuts, sweet, fragrant jackfruit and ripe, juicy mango – in the company of a local family as we wander the verdant, palm-shaded gardens. Soon we’re tucking into the aptly
named ‘snakehead fish’ – a huge, leather-skinned creature, impaled by a bamboo stick and cooked on a mound of burnt, blackened straw before it’s hacked apart and wrapped in rice paper to make a fresh spring roll. Like the durian, it’s surprisingly good, albeit with a face that does appear rather snake-like. Afterwards, we’re treated to
performances of Vovinam, a Vietnamese martial art that has children from the local village bounding around in front of us with impressive dexterity, and Don Ca Tai Tu, a type of Vietnamese folk music performed in nasal tones by
a young boy and his father, with the twang of a Vietnamese guitar. It feels like a real, authentic experience
and gives us an intriguing glimpse into the heritage of this remote, culture-rich region that I’m lucky enough to be exploring on a Mekong voyage with family-run Vietnamese line Lotus Cruises.
RURAL LIFE
It’s just one of many memorable experiences I have on the four-day trip from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh, disembarking along the way to explore narrow, rippling waterways on traditional wooden sampan boats. In Cai Be, a small rural town and
the first excursion on the cruise, we browse a floating market. Colourful boats with intimidating eyes painted
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