DESTINATIONS SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL | EUROPE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Varied and colourful wildlife can be found across Divjakë-Karavasta National Park; host Dhurata serves pancakes with honey; the National Museum in Tirana, Albania PICTURES: Diana Jarvis; Shutterstock/posztos
the culinary and cultural shifts along the way, I’ve relaxed into holiday mode and my mind is already open to the serendipity of adventure.
SUSTAINABLE ALBANIA
In the past year or so, Albania has been moving from an under-the-radar destination to hot holiday choice. Our guide Elton Caushi was a child in communist Albania. He’s a huge ambassador for the country and welcomes this rise in foreign tourism, so long as it’s “done right”. Intrepid has crested that wave with its new 12-day
itinerary, taking in some of the most awe-inducing parts of the country. It has also collaborated with Meet (the Mediterranean Experience of EcoTourism) Network to ensure that visitors experience some conservation efforts, including those in Divjakë-Karavasta National Park. This natural marine lagoon is home to the Dalmatian pelican, a species under threat, as well as greater flamingos and thousands of other bird species. We glide among the waterways in a small motorboat in the early morning, spotting flashes of kingfishers and egrets, before cycling 12 miles along the strip of land between the lagoon and the sea in time for a home-cooked lunch and coffee-reading (like tea leaf fortune-telling, but with coffee) at the eccentric dwelling of the Adriatik family. In Tragjas we hike up a mountain at sunset and arrive at a shepherd’s hut, belonging to Sofo and Dhurata,
54 28 SEPTEMBER 2023
33As dusk descends, we watch Sofo put his turkeys and goats to bed before serenading us on his harmonic wooden flute
who welcome us with homemade cinnamon-and- honey-infused raki and celebratory sweet treats. As dusk descends, we watch Sofo put his turkeys and goats to bed before he serenades us on his harmonic wooden flute, while Dhurata brings us grilled goat, aubergines, peppers and freshly made cheeses for dinner – plus plenty more homemade raki.
Our last day is spent exploring the ‘town of a thousand windows’, Berat, known for its tiered Ottoman townhouses. A final lunch at Bunker Farm (as the name suggests, there are many former bunkers on site) is a chance to bid the group – and Elton – farewell over delicious platters of cheeses, homegrown salad, ‘old goat’ hamburgers and fresh honeycomb for dessert. The rest of the group make their way to the airport while I head to Albania’s wild north for further mountain fun, knowing that there are plenty more memories to be made on the slow route home.
TW
ALBANIA SELLING TIPS
E Highlight how affordable Albania is as a destination. Dinner for two – with drinks – for example, costs £20-£25.
E There is plenty for active travellers, from hiking opportunities in spectacular mountains to kayaking in crystal-clear rivers and lakes.
E History lovers will enjoy learning about the country’s past, which spans the ancient Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines and, more recently, communists.
BOOK IT
Intrepid Travel offers a nine-day Albania Expedition from £1,255 including accommodation, selected meals, activities and transport. Get there with Byway on a five-day train journey with a sleeper ferry to Durrës from £853.
intrepidtravel.com
byway.travel
travelweekly.co.uk
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