ain magic i


DESTINATIONS JAPAN | ASIA


Ancient traditions and rolling scenery resound in Japan’s Gifu region, now connected to Europe via a new flight, writes Deborah Cicurel


t’s early in the morning and I’m wielding an enormous, handcrafted sword, its sharp edges glinting in the wintry light. A surreal scene,


but then so much of where I am seems dreamlike. I’ve come to Gifu prefecture, in the heart


of Japan’s main island, Honshu, in search of a quintessential yet quiet Japanese experience. Judging by that, I’ve found the perfect place. Getting to Gifu is easier than ever, thanks to a


relaunched Finnair flight from Helsinki to nearby Nagoya’s Chubu Centrair international airport, currently the only direct connection to Europe from this heartland hub. The seasonal service resumed last year and will increase to three flights a week from March to October, rising to four in the peak summer months. Many escorted tours of mainland Japan stop in Gifu for the Japanese Alps, onsen (hot springs), ryokans (traditional inns) and old streets of Takayama, but for clients particularly interested in Japanese culture, this region warrants deeper exploration.


SWORDS AT DAWN My first stop, the Seki Traditional Swordsmith Museum, is an ideal introduction to Gifu’s rich history. Swordsmithing in Seki dates back more than 700 years, and the city is still one of the world’s major blade-making centres. Swordsmith Kazuhiro Yoshida draws on knowledge honed by 25 generations of his family, but has adapted his craft to meet modern needs, including making kitchen knives and nail files. “In order to pass down these techniques and to attract interest, we’ve created places like this museum where people can come and experience this art for themselves,” Yoshida explains. From the sharpest of blades to the most delicate


of papers, I head to neighbouring city Mino to visit Warabee Land, a small, rural workshop where traditional washi paper is painstakingly created. Charismatic craftsman Hiroshi Ogasawara shows me each intricate step, then gives me free rein to decorate my own washi paper using leaves and ²


travelweekly.co.uk 20 FEBRUARY 2025 37


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