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SHORT BREAKS BELGRADE DESTINATIONS


Belgrade in bloom


Mary Novakovich returns to Serbia’s easy-going capital to find a city transformed


S


erbia’s vibrant capital mixes a laid-back cafe culture with


an animated nightlife that’s the envy of eastern Europe. Yet Belgrade also has culinary and cultural scenes that easily hold their own against their European neighbours. As it lies at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, the city makes the most of its many miles of riverside green spaces and cycle lanes – not to mention its parks and gardens.


Z WHAT TO SEE Most of Belgrade’s attractions are concentrated in its Old Town (Stari Grad), making it easy for


clients to get to know the city on foot. Its main artery is Knez Mihailova, a pedestrianised thoroughfare lined with handsome 19th-century townhouses and filled with cafe terraces and shops. With buskers and food stalls vying for attention, there’s an enjoyable carnival atmosphere for most of the day and evening. From Knez Mihailova the street carries on to Belgrade’s most ancient area, the vast fortress and park at Kalemegdan, where Roman ruins mingle with Ottoman and Austrian fortifications. This huge green space features museums, galleries, restaurants


There’s cutting-edge art in the Zepter Museum, which often gets lost among the shops that surround it


and sprawling gardens overlooking the Danube and Sava confluence. It’s also the scene of events throughout the year, from outdoor concerts and film screenings to food and drink festivals.


Z CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS After an absurdly long 15-year refurbishment, the National Museum of Serbia finally reopened in June 2018 – and in spite of all the problems, it was definitely worth the wait. It’s a compelling collection


ranging from ancient Roman and Neolithic artefacts to medieval paintings and artworks up to the early 20th century. While works by Picasso, Matisse and other western European painters will catch the eye, clients will also be pleasantly surprised by the range of Serbian art on display – even if they’re unfamiliar with the artists. It’s a similar story across


17 January 2019travelweekly.co.uk107


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