Though the capital still bears the


remnants of its past – bombed-out office blocks stand out – Belgrade as a whole now seems more reminiscent of its lively neighbours Prague and Budapest further north, and with double-digit growth in visitor numbers and ever-more operators featuring the Balkans, it’s time to take another look.


w BELGRADE Walking around Belgrade with my guide, Srdjan, its blend of culture and nightlife is clear, from the ornate Old Palace and National Assembly to the understated atmosphere of Cetinjska Street, full of quirky bars. The pick of the bunch is Zaokret, with its retro-chic furniture and mood lighting. I sip a beer, exhausted after a long day’s travel, watching as locals laugh and chat over beer and wine. For both visitors and locals, the city seems to be going through a boom period. Marija Labovič, chief executive of Serbia Tourism, tells me: “We have noticed the constant double-digit growth of international tourists to Serbia in the past five years. The biggest markets are regional markets and neighboring countries, including Turkey, Russia, Germany, Italy, lately Israel and China, and significant growth from western European markets.” Improved infrastructure and better


marketing have helped, along with the shift from state-owned JAT Airways to Etihad-owned Air Serbia.


Plus the growth of Danube cruises, visa-free travel for many countries and the relative cost of flights and accommodation, as well as the low cost of activities in the country itself. From nightlife to culture and dining,


Belgrade proves highly affordable. There’s the fascinating Museum of Yugoslavia, plus a buzzing food scene to explore, first at Balkan cuisine specialists Manufaktura, then at the kitsch but excellent Lorenzo & Kakalamba. The latter is a frankly bonkers restaurant which basks in its oddity, with a life-sized model of Jessica Rabbit in one corner and a neon-lit statue of Lenin in the other – surefire signs the city is as attractive for the night owl as for the history buff.


w NOVI SAD The Serbian capital is within day-trip distance of Novi Sad, the second-biggest city in the country. Though only an hour from Belgrade, the pace of life is much slower and laid-back. Walking around the pretty town centre, however, there is still a sense of liveliness, which may go some way towards explaining why it has been chosen as European Capital of Culture for 2020. Builders are hard at work when I


arrive, readying the city for its big moment, but while the preparations might put a pause on appreciating the city’s aesthetic, they fail to stymie the overall experience.


Though Belgrade still bears the remnants of its past, as a whole it now seems more reminiscent of Prague and Budapest


Often regarded as Serbia’s cultural


centre, there is much to enjoy, from the food at Project 72 Wine & Deli, specialising in traditional Serbian cuisine with modern twists, to the large Novi Sad Synagogue and Svetozar Miletić and Trg Slobode (Liberty) squares, showcasing the varied periods of Serbian history. Overnight stays are up 12%


LEFT: Museum of Yugoslavia, Belgrade


62 travelweekly.co.uk 4 January 2018


compared with last year, not including day visitors from Belgrade, but the city’s most popular attraction is the Exit music festival each July. It takes place at the beautiful Petrovaradin Fortress and attracts more than 3,000 visitors from across western Europe each year – not counting the number who visit while on a river cruise.


PICTURES: D BOSNIC; B JOVANOVIC; RELJA IVANIC


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