More online
www.thecaterer.com
that reign in the region). One third of the Bar 44 group Owen Morgan says: “The open wood-fired grill lends itself massively to a Sunday roast, so we have offered it right from the start.” Alongside the à la carte menu, the Sunday offering for two includes Segovia slow-roast suckling pig shoulder in a cider sauce (£80), 500g cuts of ex-dairy cow sirloin, served with a bone marrow-enriched Rioja sauce (£65), and 600g cuts of Welsh bone-in sirloin (£80), all served with jamon fat roast potatoes, jamon fat Yorkshire puddings and other Spanish- influenced sides. And customers can’t get enough, with four out of five ordering the sharing roasts for Sunday lunch. “With 10 pieces of meat on the grill at
any one time, at different heights, it’s quite the sight – you need a lot of skill,” says Mor- gan. The suckling pig, though, cooks in the wood-fired bread oven. “We cook it whole, the traditional way. It takes three hours from start to finish to get that perfect glass-like skin. It’s crazily tender, rich meat.” For the roast potatoes and Yorkshire pud-
dings, they combine rendered bellota-grade Iberico lard from Brindisa with tocino, a salted cured back fat. “The smoked paprika gives a lovely orange colour and savouriness to the Yorkshire puds and roasted potatoes, which get whole bashed garlic and rosemary added towards the end,” says Morgan. Also popular is the leek gratin side made with smoked Northern Span- ish cheese Idiazabal, and the Manchego cauli- flower cheese.
with loads of mar- joram, sage, oregano, garlic, shallots, dried chilli, lemon zest and bit of milk. Then we roll it up, tie it, and roast at 230ºC for 30-35 mins until the skin puffs up and it’s nice and crispy, then turn it down to 160ºC for about an hour, before rest- ing, ready for Sunday lunch.” The dish is always served with small, whole
roast apples, quince or pears, depending on the season, and the group’s red wine and Marsala gravy (which is served with all roasts), plus the usual Sunday lunch trimmings. Suckling pig is the preferred meat on Sun-
days at Cardiff’s Asador 44. The Spanish res- taurant, co-created by three Welsh siblings who travelled across the Basque region and beyond, specialises in wood-fired grill cooking (hence the name asador, which refers to the revolving grills
www.thecaterer.com
Knife and York Elevating the Sunday roast is something Yorkshire chef Andrew Pern knows all about. Alongside the refined roast menu at the Star Inn at Harome is the Yorkshire pud- ding royale (£15), cho-
sen by one in four guests. “We just wanted to cele-
brate the humble Yorkshire pud- ding. There is nothing more famous
from our county, so to be able to pimp it up a bit made sense and very much fits our rich- man-poor-man style of cooking. The addi- tion of pan-fried foie gras, shavings of fresh seasonal truffle and Madeira juices gives it a whole new level of luxury,” says Pern, who also likes to add foie gras to his toad in the hole. It’s offered as an upgrade to the regular Sun-
day roasts, which include sirloin of beef with roasted Roscoff onion, fresh horseradish and Black Sheep Ale gravy, and roast loin of York- shire-reared pork with a fig and orange sau- sage roll, Star Inn orchard apple and damson compote and Ampleforth cider juices, both served with duck fat roast potatoes.
Bird is the word But it’s all about stuffed roasted chicken for Sunday lunch at award-winning Newcas- tle restaurant Cook House. Self-taught chef and food blogger Anna Hedworth opened the restaurant in two sea containers overlook- ing the Ouseburn River in 2014, moving to a larger site down the road in 2018. The ‘sharing chickens’ have become so popular that diners must reserve them in advance. “Crème fraiche is stuffed between the skin
and the meat along with herbs, garlic and lemon,” explains Hedworth, who also has a kitchen garden on-site, where she grows the herbs for the chicken and other dishes. “We use lovage a lot, but it depends what herbs are in season, so it changes regularly,” she adds. The whole chicken, sourced from Heath-
cote Farm in Cumbria, is served with roasted new potatoes, house aioli and a seasonal green salad. “I like food which has a good balance of sweet, savoury and sharp flavours, with tex- ture and crunch and made with as little faff as possible. Sunday lunch for me harks back to big family gatherings, where plates just kept on appearing.” But the last word on what makes a roast per-
fection goes to Casson: “Do you know what makes the perfect Sunday roast? When I go to bed still full.”
28 April 2023 | The Caterer | 33
Ben Tish’s perfect roast potatoes
“I always use Rooster potatoes. I boil them until just before they break up, cool them and leave them in the fridge overnight, uncovered, so they get really dry. “I then put them straight into a hot tin with
hot fat, put in a 200°C oven, tossing them a couple of times during cooking. Our pubs use beef dripping mainly, but at home I always use extra virgin olive oil. It’s a complete myth that you can’t cook with extra virgin olive oil. Yes, it has a slightly lower flash point than olive oil, but it’s fine for light frying and roasting and far healthier. I’ve always cooked with it and never had a problem,” says Tish, who favours a roasted chicken crown at home for Sunday lunch.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48
