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“There should always be a stand-out dish on the specials board” Tom Casson, Rate Good Roasts


Sunday roasts are getting creative. And while the standard roast offering at


Hawksmoor still reigns, it also now offers ‘Sunday Feasting’ sharing cuts at its 11 restau- rants. “Now you can build your own roast at Hawksmoor,” grins Brown. There are six sides to choose from, starting


with stuffing. The menu reads: “Other Sun- day roasts come with a delicious stuffing. Why not roast beef?” The £7 side is made with bone marrow (40%), beef sausage (40%), onions and lots of fresh herbs. What the menu doesn’t reveal is that the bread-based binder – spoiler alert – is Paxo, the packet stuffing mix found in


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most British store cupboards since 1901, when it was conceived by a Manchester butcher who wanted to make Sunday lunch more exciting. “It’s like that Carlsberg ad, if Hawksmoor did stuffing, it would probably be the best in the world. I also wanted to evoke childhood mem- ories – for it to taste a bit like your mum’s stuff- ing,” explains Brown. Cue Paxo, albeit making up under 20% of the mix. It’s the most popu- lar side, along with the celeriac mash and sau- sage gravy (£7). “You buy into the dream as soon as you see the words ‘sausage gravy’ – straight away everyone is interested,” adds Brown. Usually, Brown knocks heads with co-founder Huw Gott on new dishes, but this time it was all down to Brown. His favourite side? The rainbow chard, anchovies and green sauce (£6.50). “We needed a green dish, so we went for rainbow chard. I love anchovies and they’re great with beef, plus you get the crunch of the stalks and those soft leaves. All our sides must go with beef,” enthuses Brown.


Game on It might be all about beef at Hawksmoor, but it’s invariably game for Sunday lunch at the Woods- man in Stratford-upon-Avon. With menus


28 April 2023 | The Caterer | 31


Hawksmoor celeriac mash and sausage gravy


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