Contents


News & Opinion 7 Hotel Cateys 2023 shortlist revealed 8 News in brief The week’s top stories


10 Hospitality industry pays tribute to ‘true restaurateur’ Nico Ladenis 12 Review of reviews What the papers say 14 Openings The latest hotels and restaurants


Business


18 Cover story A plan to create salad self- sufficiency in south London has taken root for restaurant and pub company the Culpeper Group


24 Escape to Ayrshire Scotland’s luxury Glenapp Castle shines on the small screen


Chef 28 Menuwatch Pahli Hill, London


30 Recipe of the week Lemongrass chicken from Simple Family Feasts by Jeremy Pang


Products 32 Casual Dining 2023 What to see at the show


36 Product news What’s happening in the world of suppliers


People


38 Minute on the clock Natasha Sideris, founder, Tashas


FRONT COVER PHOTO: LAURIE FLETCHER Content team If you have a news story, contact: news@thecaterer.com 38 28 24 I


f there’s one word that comes up repeat- edly in recollections of Nico Ladenis it is uncompromising. The chef and restau-


rateur, who sadly died on Sunday aged 89, had an absolute focus on perfection that meant he would compromise for nobody. As he told the audience at the Cateys


in 2015, who warmly greeted his Lifetime Achievement Award, he left the corporate world for hospitality having been told he was “argumentative, aggressive, uncom- promising and not a company man”. But as his daughter, Natasha Robinson, explains to us, among the many tributes on page 10, his stance was designed to afford more respect for the chefs’ skill. “His state- ment ‘the customer is not always right’ and his run-ins with critics, were intended to show that we are professionals with stand- ing and standards,” she explains. Though the industry recognises his con- tribution to gastronomy, Ladenis is less known to the wider public than many of his peers, partly down to his shunning of tel- evision because producers would dye white jackets slightly yellow for the screen. Any- thing but pristine white just would not do. He even received recognition on his own


terms, handing back his three Michelin stars to understanding inspectors when he decided he couldn’t maintain the same standards in his restaurant and battle prostate cancer. It was further evidence of the honesty and professionalism that has inspired so many chefs and restaurateurs. And though not every- one can follow his “the customer is not always right” mantra, he blazed a trail in his unblinkered aim for perfection.


James Stagg Editor


James Stagg Editor


james.stagg@thecaterer.com 07790 192369


Emma Lake Assistant editor


emma.lake@thecaterer.com 07826 905176


Caroline Baldwin


Features and special projects editor


caroline.baldwin@thecaterer.com 07584 429280


Sophie Witts News editor


sophie.witts@thecaterer.com 07786 223325


Jungmin Seo Reporter


jungmin.seo@thecaterer.com 07715 237557


Victoria Miller Products and


suppliers reporter


victoria.miller@thecaterer.com 07749 583340


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Account director Michael Murray + 309 • Account Director Tanya Read + 272 To place a job advert, email jobs@thecaterer.com • To place a property, classified or The Caterer Directory advert, contact advertising@thecaterer.com • UK CEO Stuart Parish • Group CEO Duncan Horton • Chairman Clive Jacobs


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