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Laminated brioche with cultured butter and wild garlic capers
Cured turbot with radish and Exmoor caviar
“Evolving dishes to become better is now more important to me than constantly coming
up with new things” Stuart Ralston
months to perfect the recipe,” he says. The process for perfection starts weeks in advance with the dough pre-batched and then slowly fermented before being baked twice a day, every day. It’s become so popu- lar that Ralston has to make extra to allow for seconds and take-home requests. The only meat dish on the menu is a small
piece of wagyu served with a sweet and sour black walnut ketchup and a rich bone mar- row gravy. It’s complex but comforting and the result of many painstaking rounds of test- ing. The meat is barbecued for smokiness, brushed with a gastrique of sugar, butter, vin- egar and black garlic and then topped with a shallot relish, which Ralston says offsets the
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Scottish langoustine with burnt apple and sorrel
From the menu
● Lobster, kohlrabi and sake ● Cured turbot with radish and Exmoor caviar ● Scottish langoustine with burnt apple
and sorrel ● Chawanmushi with smoked trout
and marigold ● Laminated brioche with cultured butter
and wild garlic capers ● Pumpkin with spenwood and winter
truffles ● Wild halibut with Jerusalem artichoke
and N25 caviar ● Wagyu beef with onion and black walnut ● Laganory, hibiscus and flowered lavosh ● Yorkshire rhubarb, red pepper and
goats’ milk ● Chocolate, barley koji and salted milk ● Petit fours: praline bonbon, coffee
croux craquelin, pear and rum canelé, paloma patte de fruit
10-course tasting menu, £165 per person
funkiness of the aged meat in a way that a pickle might work with a cheese. On the side there’s a salad of radicchio, truffle and crispy beef bits hiding KFC-style fried sweetbreads – a considered choice made to present offal in a more accessible way to the masses. Looking back on the growth from his first restaurant to now, Ralston considers the two worlds apart. At Lyla, it’s the first time he’s “hav- ing a crack at a restaurant where there’s zero compromise”. Here he wants to go out on a high, with ambitions of being “the best restau- rant in Scotland, and after that being the best in the UK… I want to see how far we can take this,” he adds. Despite his grand plans, this year Lyla was left off of the hallowed Michelin list, which Ralston admits stung, but is something he says won’t dictate how he runs his restaurant. “I strongly believe awards will come if your
work has integrity,” he says. “Internally our focus isn’t on getting that star, it’s on making sure we’re getting that 1% better every day and everything else will follow.”
3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh EH7 5AB
lylaedinburgh.co.uk
22 March 2024 | The Caterer | 39
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