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“It’s seen as a really positive move to share the celebrations ‘up north’ for the first
time ever” Paul Askew
Adam Reid at the French
Paul Askew, chef patron and owner, the Art School, Liverpool “At a time when our sec- tor is battling against so many challenges, this year’s Michelin cer- emony coming to the north of England brings huge
excitement and anticipation to the chefs and restaurants outside of London. It’s seen as a really positive move to share the celebrations ‘up north’ for the first time ever and this also brings anticipation of some successes that may come accordingly with this move. “Firstly, Adam Reid must surely be in line for
a star at the French in Manchester. Also here in the north, Moor Hall under Mark Birchall surely will soon achieve three stars. And having eaten there recently, a wild card entry could be Elliot Hill at the Arkle Restaurant in the Chester Grosvenor. Finally, if I had a wish for a bastion of cuisine down in the capital, then chef John Williams will hopefully be bestowed with two stars at the Ritz London. There’s always hope for some big surprises to happen and there are some incredible places that should be in con- tention in Liverpool and Leeds too.”
Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith, co-founders, Luca, London “For London, we think that BiBi and Dorian are both definitely con- tenders for one star. Erst is also a Manchester favour-
ite with brilliant and consistent cooking – we’ve had a number of great meals there, so we’re excited to see what will happen over the next few years for them.”
The critics Richard Vines, former chief food critic at Bloomberg UK “[In London] I hope the time has come for
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Ben Murphy at Launceston Place. PLU also deserves a star for Elliot Moss. Each year, I think the Ritz London under John Williams should get a second star.”
Lowri Cooke, Welsh restaurant writer and critic “During a very chal- lenging year for restau- rants in Wales, where we’ve seen a number of big names close – including
SY23 in Aberystwyth, a favourite with locals in Ceredigion as well as international visitors – I’ve been thrilled to see the growing success of the Jackdaw in Conwy and Annwn in Arberth. “Both chefs, Nick Rudge from Llandudno and Matt Powell – who is originally from Brid-
gend but who moved to Pembrokeshire over a decade ago – are currently at the forefront of Welsh regional cooking. I wouldn’t be sur- prised to see either of them gaining a star, and although it’s currently a pop-up (with plans for a permanent location), Gorse in Cardiff, Tom Waters’ modern Welsh restaurant, definitely deserves a mention.”
Andy Hayler, restaurant critic “Such predictions are extremely difficult. [In London] I would expect to see stars for Brooklands by Claude Bosi – maybe even two stars – and Pavyllon – one star. I would like to see promotions for the Ritz London and the Dysart Petersham, but Michelin dance to the beat of their own drum.”
Jay Rayner, restaurant critic, The Observer “Michelin’s greatest triumph has been to make people feel they own their rating system. Stars will go to the restaurants the inspectors, in their infinite, rather jaded wisdom, think deserve them.”
Bibi 26 January 2024 | The Caterer | 33
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