Chef Star gazing
As Manchester prepares to host this year’s Michelin ceremony for the first time, Sophie Witts speaks to critics and chefs to hear their predictions for the event
O n 5 February, all eyes will be on
Manchester when the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland announces its
new star selection for 2024. This year’s ceremony, to be held at the
Midland hotel, home to the Adam Reid at the French restaurant, is expected to kick-off from 6pm and will be broadcast live on YouTube. Recipients of Michelin stars, as well as green stars and special awards, will be announced at the event. While the red book’s decisions are notori-
ously difficult to predict – and there have been some surprises over the years – the decision to hold the event in Manchester for the first time has sparked speculation the city could be in line for more awards. And, despite it being a challenging year for operators across Britain and Ireland, there are still many restaurants that deserve recognition. The Caterer asked chefs and industry critics for their thoughts on who might be celebrating on 5 February.
The chefs Ryan Blackburn, head chef, the Old Stamp House, Ambleside, Cumbria “This year there has been quite a bit of move- ment in the hospitality industry, with some sadly
notable closures. But things seem fairly buoy- ant in the north-west on the whole, and there’s some serious talent out there. “I think we’ll see a few new additions in the shape of Farlam Hall in Brampton, North Cum- bria, and Aven in Pres- ton, North Lancashire. I’d also like to see the
French in Manchester and Lake Road Kitchen in Ambleside in the Lake District pick up stars – they both really deserve to be recog- nised. On top of that I think Mark Birchall at Moor Hall in Aughton, Lancashire, deserves three. It was quite simply the best restaurant I’ve eaten at in quite a while – it’s just the attention to detail – amazing!”
Cal Byerley and Ian Waller, chefs at Restaurant Pine, Newcastle upon Tyne
“For us, Jeremy Chan at Ikoyi in London is up there with the best.
His West African-inspired flavours and skil- ful use of the very best British ingredients is totally innovative and often challenging, but
Moor Hall
that’s why he’s deserving of the next plaudit [three stars]. “Woven by Adam Smith at Coworth Park in
Ascot is at the next level, and you can see it in Smith’s food. He’s got a perfect balance of pre- cise classical beauty without being restrained too much by tradition – his food never stands still. Then there’s Dan Cox at Crocadon Farm in Saltash, Cornwall. He’s already won a green star and we feel he’ll surely get something to accompany it this year. His soil-centric, farm- first food approach is the style of cooking we’re both really excited about and there’s no doubt Dan is the chef who is at the head of the pack with this philosophy.”
Hrishikesh Desai, chef- patron, Farlam Hall, Brampton, Cumbria “I feel Moor Hall, Res- taurant Sat Bains in Nottingham and Yny- shir in Eglwys Fach, Cere- digion, are in contention for
promotion from two to three stars. I also hope Adam Reid is recognised for his efforts at the French in Manchester and there are a few dark horses in Scotland who can bring surprise ele- ments to the revelation. Overall, it is sad to hear the closures of some fantastic starred establishments due to tough conditions and I hope they get a chance to come back with a bang either this year or the next.”
Crocadon
www.thecaterer.com
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