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situated on a rocky spit of land that juts out into the sea. It has a section of clear-glass flooring so worshippers can see God’s watery throne below. Although Casablanca boasts a relaxed attitude toward women’s clothing, better to dress modestly for your tour of the Hassan II mosque.

Casablanca is also home to the only Jewish museum in the Arab- speaking world. The Moroccan Jewish Museum traces the 2,000- year history of Jews in this country through a variety of exhibits and artifacts.

To get your architecture fix, take a tour with Casamémoire, a local non-profit historic preservation organization. Stroll the busy Boulevard Mohammed V and end up at the Art Deco- inspired Cinéma Rialto. Then visit the Habous neighborhood, home to the Mahkama du Pacha, an ornate administrative building in a traditionally heavily Moroccan part of the city. Don’t forget to drop in to the legendary Patisserie Bennis Habous for a bit of almond pastry or macaroons before you head back to your hotel.

CASA PRESENT Close your eyes, feel the ocean breeze, and listen to the sound of thumping music – you could be in Miami Beach instead of Morocco. Mood café, a chic lunch spot in the Gauthier Quarter, is a roost for the young and hip that serves light salads, sandwiches, and really good smoothies. Hop off your silver barstool and head out to shop the luxury boutiques nearby. Be warned – everyone smokes in Morocco. When you gather for happy hour with the expats at Le Chester’s, prepare to be bathed in cigarette smoke.

CASA FUTURE Casablanca is a great restaurant city. Al-Mounia is perhaps the best-known restaurant in Casablanca. Opened in 1958, it’s a family-owned place with a traditional menu. You’ll enjoy heaping dishes of warm, fragrant couscous and spicy tajine.

Those stylish expats you met at Le Chester’s will certainly dine at Le Cabestan, a fixture on the waterfront since 1927. The Four Seasons hotel’s fifth floor restaurant, just down the way, enjoys similar ocean views, but add in an outdoor terrace and fire pit, and a raw bar, and it would seem the hotel wins by a nose. Four Seasons chefs helped create the menu at Rick’s Café as well. Yes, that Rick’s Café. Call it a tourist trap, but the food is great and the ambience is delightful, thanks to an American diplomat who decided Casablanca needed a real Rick’s after all.

CASA ALWAYS Rick’s Café notwithstanding, you’ll find little reminiscent of Humphrey Bogart and Ingmar Bergman here. This city is for the traveler who wants to feel more like a local than a tourist. It’s a little bit grittier than you expected, but it’s also more upscale. It’s cosmopolitan and historical – a place where the French writer and aviator Saint-Exupéry used to spend time between his trans-Saharan airmail flights. And what’s more romantic than that?

IF YOU GO You’ll arrive at Mohammed V Airport

(GMMN/CMN), a modern structure about 45 minutes (19 miles) from downtown. Your handler at Stars Aviation Services is Kamal Mourajid, and

can be reached at 212-52-2538470. The 12,205-foot asphalt runway is just 656 feet above sea level.

Private aircraft are allowed to fly between airports within Morocco, so if you’re interested in additional sightseeing, contact the handling team to set up the connections. To avoid delays, ensure all flight plans into or out of the country are pre-filed with ATC at least 6 hours in advance.

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