If you go down to the woods today


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T: 01502 725713. Mushroom pasta This really is the easiest recipe


DON’T be surprised if you find a chef bent double searching the undergrowth, it’s fungi season for Jonny Nicholson, Chef-Proprietor of The Sail Loft in Southwold. Foraging wild foods for your


dinner, especially mushrooms, is immensely satisfying but time- consuming. Sadly I rarely escape the stoves long enough to indulge often but when I do, it is such relaxing escapism from a hot, busy kitchen. Of course, going out on a foray


basket-in-hand at any time of year to garner nature’s bounty doesn’t come without its risks and should only be attempted with bags of caution and lots of knowledge. Perhaps the most risky of all


foraging activity is harvesting wild mushrooms. Quite a number which grow in East Anglia are delicious to eat, a few such as the quite rare cep or porcini and the saffron milk cap are revered for their edible appeal and cost lots to buy, much like the famous black truffle. Add to them another dozen or so other more common favou- rites such as the puffball, field mushroom and parasol, and you can see why it is well worth the effort to go out hunting the hedge- rows. But, and a big but, most fungi you will find are unpalatable and not very pleasant to eat, and worst of all, a significant number are poisonous, several to the point of being deadly toxic. With names


like the Death Cap and Destroying Angel, you can appreciate why knowing what you are picking is vitally important when foraging. I always accompany expert


acquaintances (who have yet to admit poisoning themselves) and ensure they come armed with the right guide books and photos for reference. But in your case, I would only


advise going on an organised for- aging trip with an instructor to guide you (the Forestry Commis- sion, Suffolk Wildlife Trust and National Trust are worth approaching). Or to totally play it safe, go and


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hunt in your local greengrocer or supermarket fruit’n’veg aisle - they have a much better selection of unusual ‘wild’ mushrooms these days. This favourite mushroom pasta


dish makes a great starter with friends or a perfect sofa one pot midweek supper, almost as quick as a microwave meal, if you miss out the garnish. Enjoy! Jonny Jonny Nicholson, Chef – Pro-


prietor, The Sail Loft in Southwold The Sail Loft, Ferry Road,


Southwold, IP18 6HQ. Our beachside café-bar-restaurant, proudly using local, seasonal, Suf- folk ingredients – find us by Southwold’s dunes near the camp- site and lifeboat station. Book for


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for a speedy midweek supper, you can glam’ it up if you forage some tasty wild fungi or if it’s just a pun- net of button mushrooms, add some extra flavours such as who- legrain mustard or crisp bacon bits to boost the taste. The zesty bread- crumb garnish is far from essential but adds further pzazz for a fancy starter. (serves 4) Ingredients: 2 large handfuls of


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white breadcrumbs (from a stale loaf); Rapeseed oil; Zest of 1 lemon; 1 large garlic clove, peeled and finely-chopped; Small hand- ful of flat parsley leaves, shred- ded; 10g dried porcini mush- rooms (optional); 350g mixed fresh mushrooms (wilder the bet- ter); 650g pasta ribbons (I prefer pappardelle or tagliatelle); Unsalted butter; 2 – 3 garlic


cloves, peeled and thinly sliced; 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves; 2 bay leaves (ideally fresh but dried are fine); 3 tbsp crème fraiche (optional); Parmesan shavings (optional). Method: First prepare the


breadcrumb garnish. In a large bowl, toss the crumbs with a good


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drizzle of oil and then bake on a deep baking sheet in a pre-heated 180c oven until lightly-toasted, stir the zest and garlic through gently and bake again until gold- en. Remove to the bowl and fold through the parsley and seasoning to taste before setting aside. At this point, warm pasta plates


ready to serve into later. Soak the porcini (if using) by


just covering them in a snug saucepan with boiling water to rehydrate for 10 – 15 minutes. Sieve to drain (reserving the water) and finely chop the flesh. Set both aside. Tear or cut the fresh mushrooms


into small bite-size pieces or slic- es. Put the pasta on to boil in lots


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of boiling, salted water according to the pack instructions. Whilst cooking the mushrooms below, do keep an eye on the pasta, stirring occasionally and drain it when the timer sounds, before glazing with oil and keeping warm. After five minutes from putting


the pasta on to cook, lightly oil a hot, deep saute pan over a high heat, add the porcini and fresh mushrooms and stir-fry for a min- ute or two. Stir in the garlic, thyme and bay leaves along with a few knobs of butter. Turn the heat down to medium and keep stirring occasionally until the mushrooms have wilted but still have a little bite. Fold in the crème fraiche (if using) and sufficient soaking


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