HOLIDAYS
AN OXFORDSHIRE GIRL ABROAD AT THE FEIRA NACIONAL DO CAVALO - GOLEGA
T
here has been aHorse Fair in Golega in Portugal since the 18th century, originally started as an agricultural fair but soon became aplace where
all the leading breeders would get together and show off their horses. The horses being the noble Lusitano, ahorse that is one of the oldest breeds of saddle horse in the world, combining bravery, intelligence and beauty. After arecent trip to Portugal in June Ineeded
no prompting about whether to revisit this amazing country for the second time for this particular festival when my friend asked me if Iwas interested in going. So, on the 7th November this year myself and two partners in crime, Celia and Claire, took off from Gatwick to warmer climes leaving the bitter weather behind in Blighty. The sense of excitement began building as we
came into land at Lisbon, which always looks like a city of molten gold from the air. As with my last flight Ihanded my phone to the guy sitting by the window to take aphoto, I’mbuilding acollection. At Lisbon airport there was the odd person obviously
en route to Golega dotted around wearing Portuguese riding capes, awool cape trimmed with fox fur, very 18th century and seemed atotal contrast to the modern airport surroundings, like time travellers who had just stopped off for acoffee. On picking our hire car up we got chatting to the bloke behind the desk sorting out our transport ‘kidnap me’ he said, we all looked very hopeful until he said “I’madressage rider and I’mstuck behind this desk all week when I’d rather be at Golega”. Well, that seemed like agood recommendation from someone ‘local’. We woke up to afabulous sunny morning and set off for
Golega fortified by ahuge cake and Cappuccino in acafe in the square in the historic town of Tomar. Ashort drive to Golega and managed to somehow wedge the car at the side of the road and set off in the direction of the Festival, and then had to turn round and walk back as we realised we were going in totally the wrong direction looking like total tourists. As we progressed down the road the horse activity began to hot up, first acarriage went past then acouple of ridden horses, Igrabbed my camera. Each open doorway we passed
had horses stabled behind it, oh the temptation to peer round each one was immense, the whole town seemed to hide awealth of equine delights behind it’s doors. On entering the Festival proper, after being waylaid
at some of the fabulous trade stands, all we could do was take in the scene which somehow reminded me of the wild west, take Stow Fair in Gloucestershire and multiply it twenty times over and you could have a vague impression of Golega. Afilm set. Everywhere I looked there were horses, outside one of the bars
was acoral pole and aline of exquisite horses waiting patiently while their riders sipped drinks in the sunshine.
Writtenby JoMonck
Beautiful Lusitanos tacked up in traditional Portuguese saddles and bridles, some of the saddles were incredibly ornate, evidently the design hasn’t changed hugely from the 18th century, if it ain’t broke etc. The bridles were mainly plain excepting beautiful brass or chrome square buckles, the whole effect was as if one had stepped back into an era where horses were as one with the rider. Portuguese costume was worn by amajority of the riders and by lots of people on foot. We found aline of horses outside another bar with arider playing guitar, Icannot stress how calm and composed these horses were despite everything that was going on. Carriages trundling past, crowds of people. There were many stallions, so calm and collected they virtually shook hooves as they passed one another. It raises the question as to how we treat and keep our stallions in England. The Portuguese are obviously doing something very right. Golega at night is really quite something, the air becomes
filled with the smoke of roasting chestnuts and the crowds begin to increase, the night air becomes chilly and more like an english winter evening compared to the english summer temperatures of the daytime. Horses are quite literally everywhere, in the bars outside the cafes around the trade stands and even in the disco, yes, the disco but I’ll come to that later. Golega totally lives up to its title of the Horse Capital of Portugal, the whole town is literally alive with people and horses both ridden and driven, the thick crowds part to let the riders and carriages through, the horse takes total precedence over the pedestrian here. The horses are here to be shown off and we were treated to some fantastic impromptu displays of amazing horsemanship and children
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY2018
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