FIELD TO IN SEASON: Duck, Jerusalem Artichokes & Parsnips
fl avour and versatility to soups, stews and Sunday roast sides. We asked chefs and farmers everything you need to know about these in-season specialities.
S
easonal winter vegetables sit perfectly alongside rich, gamey meats, such as duck, currently in the peak of their season. Parsnips are commonplace on our dinner tables during these colder months, but Jerusalem artichokes are not so widely used and off er just as much
techniques that best suit this beautiful bird. We asked Dez what he loves about cooking with this meat and the ingredients it likes to sit alongside.
D
Ducks are notable for having beautiful dark fl avoursome meat and due to the miles they fl y, can put on up to a third of its weight in fat for fuel and insulation.
As with a lot of animals, fl avour is contained in the fat and adds not only to the fl avour, but acts as a natural basting and moisturising agent during the cooking process.
At this time of the year, deep into autumn and with winter on our doorstep, there are some great accompaniments that marry really well with the rich fl avour of duck. Personally, I love the sweetness and acidity of English apples, pears or even quince and put together with seasonal vegetables, like Jerusalem artichokes, celeriac or parsnips, you have a natural partner. Of course, there are always cherries, blackberries or orange, the natural partners in crime, or if you’re looking for a bit of nuttiness, chestnuts are awesome at this time of the year.
For something slightly diff erent, mallard or wild duck off er extra gamey fl avour, but be careful, as these ducks contain far less fat than their farmed counterparts – they will roast quicker and will require extra care when cooking.
32 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
evelopment Chef at Saunton Sands Hotel, Dez Turland, knows a thing or two when it comes to the fl avours and cooking
DUCK
Dez’s 3 ways to cook duck:
Breast – sous vide at 60C for 60 mins, remove from bag then crisp skin in a hot pan.
Legs – confi t in duck fat with rosemary, thyme, garlic and orange zest – 140C for 3–4 hours.
Whole crown (legs removed) – crisp skin in pan, season and roast at 175C for 20–25 mins.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76
