NORTH Just Outside London: St Albans


Twenty minutes and you are transported back to a Roman town. Known as Verulamium, this was the first major town on the Roman Road heading north from London. St Albans is in Hertfordshire, and is a delightful place to discover. The history is deep here, there is a cathedral to visit, markets and shop- ping to keep you amused, and much, much more. Alban was a local Verulamium man who lived in the 3rd/4th


century. He took in a Christian priest who was fleeing perse- cution and was impressed with his faith, so he converted to Christianity. Authorities searched his house for the priest, and Alban wore the cloak and presented himself instead. He re- fused to renounce his faith and was executed. When his head was chopped off, the legend states that his head rolled down- hill and when it stopped, a well of water sprang up on the very spot. In 61 AD, Boudica of the Iceni tribe ordered St Albans to be


burned, and a layer of ash has been discovered to corroborate the story. In medieval times, an abbey was founded here and this became a principal abbey in England. The first draft of Magna Carta was written at St Albans Abbey. You can learn more about the history of St Albans at Verulamium Museum, or return in 2018 when the Museum of St Albans finishes its new building. St Albans’ clock tower dates back to the early 1400s and can be climbed for £1. The bell inside is called Gabriel and it was rung at the start of the first battle of the Wars of the Roses. St Albans Cathedral is not to be missed. The exterior


beauty can only be matched by the interior. Free guided tours are on offer. Architecture dates back to Norman times, but it stopped being an abbey in the 16th century and was made a cathedral in 1877. It is said to have the longest nave in England, and sports both medieval wall paintings, and the shrine to St Alban. Next to the cathedral is St Albans School. You can’t visit,


but it’s nice to know that it boasts past pupils (known as OAs, short for Old Albanians) such as theoretical physicist Stephen Hawking, The Zombies’ founder members Paul Atkinson and


Hugh Grundy, and lyricist Tim Rice. If you are thirsty and want to stick to the history theme,


you’ll need to head to Ye Olde Fighting Cocks. The Guinness Book of World Records has named this Britain’s oldest pub. It dates back to the eighth century, and the building dates to the 11th century. The monks used the cellars, and yes, there was cock fighting here for almost 600 years. This pub is also proudly part of the Campaign for Real Ale, so the beers sold are authentic, individual and delicious. A Roman City would have had a Roman Wall, and you’ll be


able to see this in St Albans too. Not much remains, but you’ll be able to make out the distinct layering technique employed by the Roman builders. It’s managed by English Heritage, which also owns Old Gorgambury House, a little further away, the 16th century home of Sir Nicholas Bacon. The itch to shop can be scratched in St Albans. A monthly


farmers’ market on Sundays will help you to plan your visit. There is also a weekly market every Wednesday and Saturday; there has been a regular market in this location dat- ing back to the 11th century. The Maltings is a rabbit warren of shops, food outlets and more, but has a 1980s feel to it and lacks atmosphere. George Street has a better feel for vil- lage shopping. You could indulge in a long lunch at one of the many restaurants, but if the weather is nice, a picnic in Verulamium Park with a view of the lake bridge would be the perfect place to enjoy a bit of sunshine and a taste of village life. Not far from the Verulamium Museum on St Michael’s Street is the Waffle House, with a delicious menu and set in a 16th century watermill.


6 FOCUS The Magazine July/August 2017


www.focus-info.org


Historic Ford Crossing


St Alban’s Market


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