this year, followed by new food and beverage director Andre Nicholson. Both have lengthy careers with notable eateries. Andersen graduated from Johnson & Wales culinary school, then worked with several resorts and restaurants across the country, including the Relais & Chateaux Auberge du Soleil in Napa Valley and Sheraton Wild Horse Pass in Chandler. Nicholson, meanwhile,


has managed properties such as The Boulders in Carefree, Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain, L’Auberge de Sedona and the former Trader Vic’s in Scottsdale. Together they form a very stout 1-2 culinary punch. Ocotillo is not a faceless


corporation. It is the vision and hard work of President and CEO Bernie Hoogestraat, legendary in these parts for his hands-on management of his real-estate developments. He and his wife, Deborah, often dine at the eponymous eatery, which is always a good sign. As a first order of


business, Andersen and Nicholson reached out to local purveyors to stock their pantry, including Black Mesa Ranch goat cheese out of Snowflake, Mrs. Klein’s Pickle Co. of Phoenix, Bread Connection bakery of Chandler and Queen Creek Olive Mill. The result is a collection


of energized menus, still focusing on classic American favorites, but brightened with artful presentation and impressive bursts of flavor here and there. Even happy hour has a fun buzz, offering uncommon bites like bison sliders with American cheese and a pile of sweet-potato fries for $5, alongside $3 drafts, $5 well drinks and $5 house wines. Nearly every restaurant


www.azgolf.org


Daily fish specials like seared ahi keep the menu fresh at Bernard’s at Ocotillo.


has a rib eye, but the cut here has been aged for 28 days, weighs in at 20 ounces bone-in, and sports a lovely fire-grilled horseradish crust. It’s the most expensive dish at $44 (the runner-up is $27 for an 8-ounce filet mignon), and there’s no a la carte price gouging — the steak comes with buttermilk roasted Yukon gold potatoes plus a seasonal vegetable and a zigzag of balsamic reduction. An appetizer of prosciutto


and fig bruschetta ($11) gets things off to a solid start. So generously portioned it looks like a salad. A base of grilled crostini is layered on a long white plate and mounted with shaved prosciutto, greens, mascarpone and splashes of balsamic reduction. Littleneck clams are also very good, gently cooked and swimming in a robust tomato Chardonnay broth drizzled in Queen Creek olive oil, and dunked with garlic bread ($12). I like that the Caesar


($8) incudes the option of anchovies — many people, including my dining partners for the evening, don’t care for


the aggressive little fishies, but I crave the tangy, salty spark they give an otherwise mild salad. It’s like the pleasant jolt of sour the fried Queen Creek olives and bitter radicchio give an otherwise sweet vermouth crab martini stabbed with jicama and pesto ciabatta crostini ($12). As an entrée, the Sonoma


duck is one of the best, the earthy, rich meat paired with spinach Parmesan risotto, sweet-tart fig-rhubarb compote and Port glaze. No wonder; I later learned that the chef fell in love with such bold flavors when he lived in Sonoma County while working at Auberge. Seared wild salmon


beckons to milder palates, delivering a fine hunk of crisp-skinned fish on a bed of sesame baby carrots, shiitake mushrooms, baby bok choy, Asian slaw and roasted yellow pepper coulis that’s enjoyably silky thanks to a touch of tahini ($26). At lunch, the club feeds


clientele the cozy favorites that never go out of style. The French dip ($13) is ample with shaved prime


rib (a happy reminder of Bernard’s prime rib special on Wednesday night — 8 ounces, $20; 10 ounces $23 — with veggies and baked mashed potatoes). And the chef doesn’t mess with the classic club sandwich, piling on the roasted turkey, smoked ham, bacon, lettuce, avocado, tomato or mayo on toasted sourdough ($10). Sitting in the sun,


nibbling French fries and then finishing with a slice of cheesecake while watching golfers navigate this watery oasis, it almost feels like a ritual. Just what we all crave sometimes — a relaxing, satisfying tradition — something that Bernard’s delivers time and again. n


Carey Sweet writes about food, wine and dining for The Arizona Republic, San Francisco Chronicle, Phoe- nix Magazine and Sunset.


DETAILS


Bernard’s at Ocotillo 3751 S. Clubhouse Drive, Chandler, 480-917-6660, ocotillogolf.com.


ANNUAL2014 | AZ GOLF Insider | 17


COURTESY OCOTILLO GOLF RESORT


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