September/October 2023
BY ERIN ENGLISH
erin@nitravelnews.com
HAVING been to Krakow before in 2017, I was no stranger to the city’s beauty and city-break culture. On this particular trip to Krakow, I got to see a side to the city that I had never experienced before. In recent years, Krakow has been a popular city break amongst UK and Irish holidaymakers and for good reason. The cobbled streets of Krakow’s famous market square ooze history, and in the evening the streets come alive with the vibrant cuisine and dining culture. The second largest
city, and one of the oldest cities in Poland. Krakow was the official capital of Poland from 1038 up until 1596, when the King of Poland, Sigismund III
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Installed in 1972, the sculpture performs a spectacular show as it breathes fire into the air every five minutes. Residing in the complex of Wawel Castle
stands Wawel Cathedral. A magnificent gothic structure that is nearly 1000 years old, Wawel Cathedral has been the location of many notable occasions throughout Polish history. Wawel Cathedral acted as the coronation and burial site of the Polish Monarchy. The exterior of the cathedral is adorned with side-chapels and mausoleums, the most popular addition is Sigismund’s Chapel, easily recognised by its beautiful golden dome. Hints of the myths and legends surrounding
the Krakow
Dragon can be identified at the entrance of the cathedral. As many believe that bone of the Wawel Dragon are hanging at the entrance
Cathedral, Vasa
transferred the capital to Warsaw.
Upon our arrival in Krakow, we were introduced to Jerzy, our tour guide and expert on all things Krakow. Prior to this visit, I didn’t know much about the historical side of Krakow. However, there was nothing that a walking tour with Jerzy couldn’t fix and after a few hours, our brains were filled to the brim with history. The city’s name, Krakow is said to originally derive from Krakus, the leader of the Vistulan tribe who founded the city around 700AD. Upon Krakus and the Vistulan tribes arrival, Wawel Castle was built at the top of Wawel Hill, a structure that still stands proudly over the city today. According to legend, many believe that when Krakus discovered the city, he defeated the Wawel dragon, a dragon that terrorised the citizens of the city and lived in a cave at the foot of Wawel Hill. To mark this occasion, the city was then named Krakow, in celebration of Krakus and his defeat of the Wawel dragon. A sculpture of the Wawel Dragon sits on the banks of the river Vistula, perched just below Wawel Hill and Wawel Castle.
of the and
have been since the beginning of the 16th century. While it is speculated how the bones winded up at the entrance of the religious building,
it is widely
believed amongst locals that if the bone ever breaks or falls, the city of Krakow will cease to exist. I would recommend a trip to Wawel
Castle, a short walk from Krakow’s Old Town Market Square, the grounds of the castle are free to access and are filled with beautiful sights.
of Polish history are the
dotted
Snippets around
complex, from
Wawel Castle which was the home of the Polish Monarchy, including the mighty Jagiellonian dynasty. Not to mention the Wawel Cathedral, a gothic cathedral which has been the religious foreground of many figures throughout Polish history. To access the interior of the Wawel cathedral and the castle, there is an admission fee of roughly twenty pounds per person. Not a fan of history? A trip to the top the Wawel Hill is still throughly recommended for fabulous views of the Vistula river.
It’s also
the perfect place to gather some stunning holiday snaps. Walking just a short distance from Wawel Castle lies Krakow’s Old Market Square, perhaps my favourite area in the city. The architecture of the main square is visibly stunning. Despite being the centre of Krakow’s old town,
the
area is not overcrowded and easy to navigate. The square is bordered by bars and restaurants, not to mention an array of gift shops. The area is wonderful in the evening time,
72 HOURS IN KRAKOW | 19
when you can stand in the heart of the main square to take in the sights of the illuminated St Mary’s Basilica and The Cloth Hall.
Perhaps the most photographed area in
all of Krakow, St Mary’s Basilica is the main focus point of the city’s old own square. The construction of St Mary’s Basilica began in the late 13th century, before being rebuilt in Gothic style during the 14th century. Stepping into the Basilica, prepare to be awe-stricken by the wooden altarpiece. Known as St Mary’s altar, the piece was constructed by Veit Stoss. The altar piece stands at 80 metres tall and is sure to be a space of wide amazement. So much so that in 1978, St Mary’s Basilica and the Krakow’s main square was named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a full day of touring with Jerzy, it was time to rest up and
get ready
for a brand new day. Our second day of historical touring brought us into a whole new era of Polish history. A time
when Poland was under the control of the Soviet Union. Waking bright and early at 1891 Garni Hotel, myself and Emma were met in the morning by Kornelia from Crazy Guides and her blue Trabant, a traditional car in Communist Poland. Poland was under the control of a communist government from 1952 until 1989. Still to this day, historic reminders of Poland’s time under communist rule still remain. Especially in the town of Nowa Huta, a small town located around a twenty minute drive from Krakow’s Old Town. Nowa Huta was created as a industrial city just a short distance from Krakow after World War Two. Translating to New Steelworks in English, Nowa Huta was built to become the city for the workers of the Lenin Steelworks, which opened in 1954. Nowa Huta was meant to become an ideal setting for the communist structure, where residents could live and work. The architecture and street structure of Nowa Huta resembles Paris, with a radial city plan where all five avenues directed towards the Central Square. The Architecture throughout Nowa Huta is Socialist Realism and the city was clearly built to be the ideal model of a communist town. Although as the years progressed, Nowa Huta became a place of revolution against the Soviet Union. Our first visit on the tour was the Avenue of the Roses where a 6.5 metre statue of Vladimir Lenin, the first leader of the Soviet Union and the leader of the revolutionary Bolsheviks, once stood. Initially erected in 1973, the statue was contested by locals and Kornelia informed us how there was one successful attempt to damage the statue of Lenin. In 1979, an explosive was placed on the statue’s foot and Lenin’s toe was destroyed. While the damage to the statue was limited, this was viewed as a massive success for Nowa Huta residents and the
anonymous perpetrator was looked at upon a hero. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the statue of Lenin was pulled down by residents in 1989. Interestingly, the damaged statue now stands in a Swedish theme park.
The next stop on our communist tour was
the Tadeusz Sendzimir Steelworks, formerly named the Vladimir Lenin Steelworks. At the height of the 1970’s, the steelworks factory employed around 40,000 people who all resided in Nowa Huta and produced around 7 million tons of steel. In the 1980’s, the steelworks factory became a centre point for the anticommunist resistance in Nowa Huta. Numerous anticommunist strikes and demonstrations took place at the factory. Then it was time to head underground, at the entrance of the factory, two administration buildings stand opposite each other. Hidden beneath one of these buildings is an entire underground bunker. The Soviets were fearful of a nuclear attack from the west and the bunker was built to protect important Soviet figures in Nowa Huta. Other bunkers are dotted across the city for residents.
Visiting these bunkers is like stepping back in time.
Maps of Nowa Huta and
the factory remain on tables, as well as calendars and other workplace items. The bunker remains untouched from outside elements, and a visit is truly like stepping back into Communist Nowa Huta. Our Nowa Huta tour came to an end in Style Restaurant, a Nowa Huta diner which has been a staple to residents from the communist-era until modern day. At Style, we were able to enjoy some cheese and potato dumplings and sip at four traditional Polish Vodkas.
Nowa Huta was the highlight of my trip,
from getting picked up in a vintage car to touring the underground bunker. Not to mention the tipple of treats at the end!
EMMA’S VERDICT :
“Krakow is an amazing,
spectacular,
breathtaking city that should be on your must visit list for 23/24. If you are interested in history it’s all around you in Krakow, but equally it’s the place for nightlife and shopping as well. This was my second time in Krakow and I still feel there are places and activities that I didn’t get to experience. Looking forward to my next trip!
to Wawel Castle, Wieliczka ERIN’S VERDICT :
“From St Mary’s Basilica
Salt Mines, Cosmic Golf and Nowa Huta. What a fabulous few days in Krakow!
A jam-packed pocket of culture and beauty in Poland, Krakow is the ideal city break destination to enjoy with your loved ones. It’s definitely a city to add to your travel bucket-list.”
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