The patio at the Lincoln Restaurant and Bar 1936 is the perfect place for a Copper State cocktail (below) or a glass of champagne.
and Arizona cheddar and melting with hand- churned butter ($5). They’re positively addictive, and my server admitted that some guests come in just to eat a few plates of these. It’s clear the chef likes
rich flavors, too. Formerly of Meritage Steakhouse at JW Marriott Phoenix Desert Ridge, he offers bold dishes like beef cheeks that are battered and fried crispy. In fact, they almost look like tiny chicken fried steaks set atop soupy Bob’s Red Mill rye porridge, with wild mushrooms and a finishing sprinkle of fresh shaved horseradish making for a bit of brilliant heat ($16). Brussels sprouts, too, are enriched with poached egg, smoked pork broth and shaved onion ($13), for a dish that speaks comfortingly of winter. For something lighter,
a gleaming white plate of hamachi crudo resembles rose petals, the small slabs of pink fish crowned in bright red curls of Fresno chile, green shiso and a whisper of
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white soy and Meyer lemon ($18). Sweeter appetites will appreciate the McClendon’s Farm Greens tossed with radish and cucumber, and including sugary grapes, Clementine citrus and verjus vinaigrette ($12). If modern diners are
leaning toward healthier eating, this may not be their place. But I can’t argue with the luxury of a luscious steak, especially when it’s chef’s 30-day, dry- aged rib eye that weighs in at a full pound and is flooded in bone marrow butter. The butter soaks into the beef, then dribbles into sides of whole, blistered shisito peppers and a couple golden wedges of roasted potato ($48). Even artic char tastes
indulgent, with its crispy pan- seared skin, generous drizzle of smoked pumpkin oil, earthy roasted butternut squash and sprinkle of crunchy, roasted pumpkin seeds ($32). Fresh torn watercress adds welcome brightness. At dessert, Denny Mohler,
Lincoln’s pastry chef supreme, takes over with playful
cream and candied berry; the donut’s hole sits to the side, with the sorbet on top. For all the meticulous
recipes like “popcorn and peanut butter” mousse and crumbled black cocoa cookie paired with house-made toffee popcorn that includes a bit of roasted cocoa sorbet ($10). It’s a great mix of textures, and surprisingly not too sweet. Another classic,
cheesecake, gets some contemporary love with a white chocolate body, brown butter cookie crumble crust, and zingy accents of segmented citrus and seasonal citrus sorbet ($10). The presentation is dramatic, with the cake like a perfectly round donut decorated in pillowy
touches to the food, it’s not stuffy here, with smooth service and a bit of friendly chatter. My server, too, earned an extra tip one evening, for insisting I look too young to have been coming to Camelback Inn since I was a child in the 1970s. Now, I replied, with the
new Lincoln, I’ve got reason to come back again. n
Carey Sweet writes about food, wine and dining for The Arizona Republic, San Francisco Chronicle, Phoenix Magazine and Sunset.
DETAILS
Lincoln Restaurant & Bar 1936, 5402 E. Lincoln Drive, Paradise Valley. 480-905-7979,
camelbackinn.com. Hours: Lincoln, 4 to 10 p.m. nightly. Bar 1936, 3 p.m. to midnight nightly.
ANNUAL 2016 | AZ GOLF Insider | 19
JW MARRIOTT
JW MARRIOTT
JW MARRIOTT
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