Nails - Developments in Nail Lacquers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A time for change
But after the fall of the Roman Empire, nail painting fell into decline as European access to nail polish ingredients became limited. It wasn’t until the Renaissance, when new connections were made with Africa and the Middle East in the 17th Century, that Europeans started to paint their nails again.
19th and 20th Century
Since then, we haven’t been able to stop ourselves from polishing and preening our nails. The first new nail salon opened in France in 1870, although there was yet to be a nail polish created to add colour. Instead, nails were often buffed and polished with creams, tinted oils and powders to create a shiny finish, which is no doubt why we refer to the liquid we apply to our nails as ‘polish’.
In 1917 the desire for a coloured nail polish was met by Cutex who refined a version of automobile paint to create a red coloured polish. Then, during World War One the US took over after receiving chemical patents for Nitrocellulose, the ingredient heavily used in today’s lacquers, from the Germans. They went on to produce a pink polish, the second colour available on the market.
To proceed this, manicure parlours became more commonplace in the 1920’s and 1930’s. The fashion amongst flappers was to paint the central part of the nail plate, leaving the cuticle and top of the nail colour-free. This became known as the moon manicure – arguably an early form of nail art and another example of ladies becoming adventurous with their nails.
Commercial
The first commercial polish came from the Charles Revson Company – more commonly known as Revlon – who marketed their products in department stores in 1932.
Hollywood widened the audience for red nails specifically through colour movies. Actresses seen wearing red nails and lips demonstrated femininity which many desired to recreate.
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However today we are no longer restricted to just a few basic shades. There are an array of colours and brands, alongside an increasing amount of formulas. From traditional to gel effect polishes and their hybrid sister gel polish, clients are spoilt for choice. Changes in ingredients have led to the development of food-enriched lacquers, vegan polishes, wash-off formulas or graffiti-style spray on paints. Each one contains a refined combination of ingredients to provide the best results for clients who have come to demand more from their everyday manicure.
Today’s formula
decoded Typically a polish is formulated with film- forming agents, resins and plasticisers, solvents and colouring agents.
Nitrocellulose acts as a film-forming agent to harden the colour. Synthetic resins and plasticisers are mixed to improve flexibility and resistance to soap and water. Solvents then hold the colour pigments and liquid until application, after which they evaporate. Often acting as a plasticiser too, butyl stearate and acetate are perhaps the most common ingredients used today.
This menu of ingredients has been stripped down over time to ensure that no
harmful chemicals are used, making nail polish increasingly safe for everyday use. Products that no longer contain Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), Toluene or Formaldehyde are known as 3-free polishes. The additional removal of Formaldehyde Resin and Camphor are known as 5-free polishes. Some companies have even taken the extra step removing Xylene and parabens to create 7-free polishes.
Further formulation alterations come from brands such as Nails Inc whose H2GO 7- free wash-off polish is ideal for those adults who are unable to wear polish during prayer and need something which is quick and easy to remove. Similarly, polishes enhanced with superfood ingredients such as Kale and Cucumber to smooth, brighten and prevent peeling of the nails are beginning to flood the market for the ever more aware clientele.
It seems that whatever request the modern day woman has for her nails, there’s been a development made to cater for it. But with an expanding market and importance of always striving to achieve the best you can, it must be asked, ‘what is next for the world of nail lacquer?’ Only time will tell.
Turn over the page to discover the latest lacquer ranges available on the market…
Image ©
iStock.com/AndreaAstes
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