Nails - Prescriptive Nail Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Diagnosis Beginning the
Nail
treatment There are a variety of different factors that can affect the health of our nails. From sunrays, pollution and stress to eating habits and medication. The best way to diagnose your client for the most appropriate treatment is through a client consultation.
“It is important to carry out a thorough consultation and analysis at the beginning of each treatment, to make sure you prescribe the correct solution to achieve the best results,” explains Alyson Trueman, Jessica Nails Educator. “Ask clients what their nail concerns are, as well as questions about their lifestyle. Assess each nail individually, as nails on the same hand can have different needs. This will allow you to tailor the treatment programme and duration.”
Your client may need to undergo continuous care over a period of weeks to help nurse their nails back to full health. Establishing a treatment plan with achievable goals in mind, so that your client can monitor their progress, tends to be the most effective way to treat unhealthy nails. Don’t forget to consider your client’s budget when creating the plan and remember to take a deposit for the whole course of treatment after providing the first one, ensuring you’re covered in case of any change of mind later on.
Nail diagnosis A list of common nail complaints include peeling and flaking, post-enhancement or damaged nails, soft, thin, dry, short and infected nails. We discuss these further below:
• Peeling and flaking: “This occurs when the layers of Keratin begin to split at the free edge of the nail and can be caused by a number of factors from low fat diets to bad filing methods or ill health. The best way to treat flaking nails is to use a strengthening base coat, to help fuse the nail layers back together,” explains Alyson.
• Post-enhancement or damaged nails: “Clients who have worn nail
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enhancements can be left with severely damaged, thinned, dry and weak nails,” Alyson reveals. The nail can be damaged during application too. “Aggressively filing the natural nail can sometimes cause problems, from weak nails to the detachment from the nail bed,” adds Elizabeth Feehan, Managing Director of The Beauty School. Repair these issues by using a nail strengthening product to enhance stability. Don’t forget to apply cuticle oil and massage the hand with a non- greasy hand lotion to help stimulate nail growth. Ridge fillers will help to provide a smoother nail surface.
• Soft, weak, thin nails or dry, hard and brittle nails: These types of nails tend to break before the plate has a chance to grow. Trial an intense nail strengthener that contains proteins such as Keratin, Soy and Wheat with Calcium to provide a protective barrier that will strengthen the nail, enabling it to grow strong, without breaking. This type of product will provide moisturising properties too.
• Nail biting: “One of the most common problems a client can have is the problem of biting their nails to the point that they have very few millimetres of nails left on their fingertips,” says Elizabeth. Encourage your client to apply a nail biting deterrent to help them kick the habit. There are many on the market that often have the bitter taste of Cactus which can be unpleasant but effective.
• Fungal infections: “[If] your client [asks] for an artificial gel extension treatment [but has] a brown stain on one nail which could be a fungus infection… a good manicurist should advise the client to seek medical attention and treat the fungus. Only after the infection has been
removed [can] she proceed with the treatment,” advises Elizabeth.
As a whole A nail diagnosis is often included in a routine manicure where your client is expecting a complete, pampering treatment. This is an opportunity to use your specialist products, techniques and knowledge.
“As well as prescribing a treatment base coat for nails, apply extra oils and creams for those with dry skin, and offer hand massages to stimulate circulation,” adds Alyson. “Depending on the nail concern, you can also offer your clients heated mittens or booties during the treatment to help products penetrate deeper. After the treatment complete a prescription card to record progress, monitor results and recommend aftercare.”
Aftercare provides opportunity for you to influence your client’s progress in between treatments and help them see results faster, leaving them more likely to keep up with their scheduled appointments. Retail a selection of strengtheners, oils, or treatment pens that are quick and easy to use and encourage your clients to use these on a regular basis alongside their weekly appointments.
But remember that no amount of treatment will be effective if the acts causing the damage continue. Encourage your client to alter their lifestyle to enable their nails to have the best chance of being healthy. These changes alongside weekly treatments will result in healthier looking nails on each visit.
Turn the page to discover the latest products available to help you treat your clients’ nails…
To help repair weakened nails, use a nail strengthening product to give them back the stability they need.
Image ©
iStock.com/Belyjmishka
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