CLOTH
W
hen the poet W B Yeats wrote about wishing “for the cloths of heaven”, we know he wasn’t
thinking of tailoring, although he could have been. For, as anyone who understands cloth knows, the whole sartorial process begins with it – the weight, the texture, the subtleties of colour and, perhaps strangely, even the smell – authoritative and reassuring. A task for many tailoring students used to be the blind test where a bag full of fabric swatches was passed around, the object being “to see with one’s fingers”. Touch is vital – it may be seductive to some and unpleasant to others. Don’t forget the importance of associations and memory too. Take a hairy tweed? It may force some to run to the hills, while others will never want to remove such a garment.
“Think twice,
cut once” Murray Arbeid
Undeniably there is a psychological aspect to this, our second skin. The designer Yuki once said that he cut fabric as little as possible because, for him, it was akin to thrusting his shears into skin. Or as the celebrated designer Murray Arbeid once offered advice to a novice: “Think twice, cut once.” Throughout the history of Savile Row, the satellite fabric suppliers, whether close at hand or further afield, have formed a unique alliance which combines to generate a force which creates elegance – or indeed functionality alone. After all, although this international street is known primarily for its suiting, it is no stranger to clothing for sport and the field. A first time visitor to a fabric house or if lucky enough a mill itself, will be astounded by the art – and that word is not used lightly – of the creator. That our species is naturally visually curious seems to be echoed in the sheer variety of cloth available, with each establishment and even each bolt, telling a very individual story. R
SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE
45
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