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Golf





I don’t check speed too often; we carry out good practices and then they are what they are. You can see and hear if a green is any good


A new pathway has been installed at the 10th “We don’t verti-cut greens on a regular


Pleased with their work - a new bridge completed


basis either; we just do it when we feel the need is there. This is mainly when the bents are getting a bit straggly at the start of the year. We have a Campey triplex brush which we use every time we cut and I find that this eliminates the need to verti-cut as often. The fairways are scarified twice a year using a Sisis Veemo, and we will scarify the greens using our Thatchaway units, if needed. The tees, approaches and fairways are hollow cored once a year.” “I try not to vary the cutting heights too


drastically, greens are 3.25mm summer, 4.5mm winter. Tees and approaches are 9mm summer and 11mm winter. Fairways are 15mm all year and rough is 60mm all year, the height for greens and tees changes as soon as we start to get any sensible growth.” “Greens speed through the summer is


Contractors were brought in to dig out the ditches


around 9 to 10 on the stimp. I don’t check speed too often; we carry out good practices and then they are what they are. You can see and hear if a green is any good. I watch a lot of putts as well and listen to members’ comments. If the feedback is not great, then we assess what we are doing and alter it. The agronomist’s test results show precisely what is going on with the greens, and the


results are always, well usually, favourable!” “I don’t follow any sort of prepared nutrition plan, I just use what I know works for us. This year we are using Farmura Premium N and Premium K, Porthcawl, GBR Acti-fe and a 5:5:10 and 3:0:3 turf hardener. Tees and approaches have a slow release feed at the start of the year. When this peters out, they are then fed with Porthcawl and low rates of NK. I aim for anything under 100kg n/annum on greens. Primo Maxx and wetting agents are used on all areas.” “We monitor our moisture levels on


greens regularly, with guidelines set between 20% and 30%. We can dry them out to around 15% before we get any signs of drought stress, but they become far to firm. We try to keep them at around 25%. We do hand water as often as we can to try and target the dry areas, we use GBR pellets when doing this.” “I don’t overseed greens at all, just work with what I have. We use a 100% dwarf rye on tees, which is applied through divoting. We now use a fescue mix on fairways, which is applied mostly through divoting, but we will overseed any thin areas.” “During the last eight years, we have


carried out an awful lot of aeration work on the fairways. When I first started here, there


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