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Activating the Proteasome
Stefan Bänziger, PhD, Manager Development Cosmetic Actives, RAHN AG, discusses a novel anti-ageing strategy
Proteasomes are the cell’s means of disposing of proteins that are damaged or worn out. However, as we age, Proteasome activity declines, and damaged proteins accumulate in our cells. The result is a gradual impairment of cell function and, ultimately, the appearance of the signs of ageing. Thus, reactivating our Proteasomes is a promising anti-ageing strategy. Ageing is a natural process that goes hand in hand with a gradual loss of physiological and cellular functions. An imbalance between the formation and the degradation of damaged and worn out proteins is understood to be an underlying cause. The Proteasome, a ring- structured, multi-catalytic protein shredder, is the most significant element for removing damaged proteins. In fact, its elucidation was recognised with the 2004 Nobel Prize for Chemistry. Unfortunately, our Proteasomes become less
effective as we age, and damaged proteins accumulate in the skin as it is exposed to
stresses and over time [1, 2]. The damaged proteins are detrimental to the skin: they provoke the first signs of ageing in general and begin the formation of age spots in particular.
Skin illumination by eliminating age spots Age spots form when damaged proteins build up in the skin. In particular, the pigments Melanin and Lipofuscin are induced by sun and age and accumulate in skin cells called epidermal keratinocytes. Lipofuscin is a complex mixture of oxidised proteins and fat products, and it is not an inert material. Its reactive surface encourages the formation of more Lipofuscin and more protein damage (self- amplification; see Fig. 1) [3]. The keratinocytes, filled with Lipofuscin and Melanin, migrate from the basal membrane downwards into the dermis and form bud-shaped micro-invaginations [4]. With increasing age, brownish-coloured patches eventually manifest themselves as age spots on the skin. Minimising the formation of these pigments is, thus, a promising approach to illuminate the skin. ILLUMISCIN®
combats
Figure 1: The Proteasome removes harmful protein aggregations. However, the activity of Proteasomes declines steadily with age, and aggregates (e.g., Lipofuscin) accumulate. The condition is made worse since damaged proteins tend to cause other proteins and molecules to aggregate in a process called self-amplification.
Melanin and Lipofuscin in multiple ways. Olive leaf extract is rich in the polyphenol Oleuropein, which reduces Lipofuscin formation by re-activating the Proteasome. Stabilised Vitamin C inhibits Tyrosinase and, thus, blocks Melanin formation. Finally, Zinc- PCA facilitates Vitamin C uptake by increasing the concentration of Vitamin C transporters. ILLUMISCIN®
effectively reduced the
size and diminished the contours of age spots (Fig. 2). By combating Melanin and Lipofuscin, RAHN’s Cosmetic Active will fade any brown skin blemish, whether it is a tan, freckle, or age spot.
Skin rejuvenation by counteracting first signs of ageing Loss of function of the Proteasome has been implicated in the ageing process. Thus, increased degradation of damaged proteins may slow down the natural ageing process. Proteasome activation delays senescence and the appearance of first signs of ageing. It increases the capacity to cope with various oxidative stressors, enhances cell survival, and extends cellular lifespan [1, 2, 5-7]. PROTEOLEA®
, which has been developed
for those of us over the age of 35, also contains proteasome-activating olive leaf extract. The Chinese date (jujube) extract strengthens the skin’s antioxidative defence system and invigorates the metabolism of ageing skin. Even if some signs of skin ageing develop, the polysaccharide Levan will reduce them by providing moisture and tightening and strengthening the skin.
After 28 days of applying PROTEOLEA® ,
individuals who averaged 44.4 years of age displayed a wrinkle depth that would be expected in subjects of 38.3 years. This is to a rejuvenation effect of 6.1 years within only 28 days (Fig. 3).
Conclusion The Proteasome is an excellent target to manipulate to maintain the pool of functional proteins and to prevent the accumulation of damaged proteins. Proteasome activation rejuvenates the skin by counteracting first signs of ageing, such as crow-feet wrinkle formation (PROTEOLEA®
). Moreover, it
improves radiance and even skin tone by fading age spots (ILLUMISCIN® RAHN AG, Stand H49
).
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