INDULGENCES eating out by tony reverditto
SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY AT ITS FINEST! THE JAZZ KITCHEN With the spirit of Mardi Gras in the air, it’s a time for celebration and it seemed only fitting to
pay culinary and spiritual homage to the long-established tradition. The history of Mardi Gras began long before Europeans set foot in the New World. Originally, it was a mid-February ritual when ancient Romans celebrated the Lupercalia, a circus-like festival much like the Mardi Gras we’re familiar with today. When Rome embraced Christianity, the early church fathers decided to incorporate certain aspects of thier pagan rituals into the new faith, rather than attempting to abolish them altogether. Carnival became a period of abandon and merriment which preceded the penance of Lent, thus giving a Christian interpretation to the ancient custom.
Mardi Gras was first brought to America in 1699 by the French explorer
Iberville (big time party boy). He sailed into the Gulf of Mexico and boldly continued his expedition up the Mississippi River, finally setting up camp on the west bank about sixty miles south of modern New Orleans. He determined that the popular event be like the major festival celebrated in Paris since the Middle Ages . . . and the rest as they say . . . is history! Ralph Brennan’s family entered the hospitality business back in 1947 with the purchase of the Old Absinthe Bar on Bourbon Street, in New Or- leans’ French Quarter. The family moved on to operate a small restaurant, Brennan’s Vieux Carré, that eventually became Brennan’s on Royal Street. In 1969, they purchased the Commander’s Palace in the historic New Orleans
Garden District, serving the finest Louisiana ingredients. Ralph Brennan entered the family business in the early ‘80, along with eight other third generation cousins who are still actively involved in the ten New Orleans- style restaurants, seven of which are located in New Orleans. In 2001, the brilliant entrepreneur reserved prime real estate at the 1.4 billion dollar DISNEYLAND® Resort Development Project. His vision was to build the Jazz Kitchen, which would be a 15,000 square foot New Orleans- themed food and entertainment venue amidst the newly added theme park, hotel, retail, dining, and entertainment district. One decade has since passed and it has proven to be a saavy investment. Upon entering, my dining companion John and I immediately got a
great vibe and were drawn to the replicas of the traditional two-stories, styled as in the French Quarter district. Blaire, our hostess, seated us in the center of the action and music at the New Orleans-style jazz club, Flam- beaux’s. Very cool, very authentic, they even had festive beads draped over our napkins for us to wear. In a timely manner Tanis, our server, greeted us (a year and a half with the company, nine years as a server - she’s one semester away from a marketing degree from Cal State Fullerton.) She took our drink and appetizer order; John ordered the Artesa, 2009 Chardonnay and I decided on a traditional Hurricane, made popular at Pat O’Brien’s bar in 1940s New Orleans, its namesake being based on the lamp-shaped glasses
70 RAGE monthly | MARCH 2011
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