Never use more loam than is required when repairing ends. It is far better, in my opinion, for the repair to settle a little low than too high
more loam and level off the whole area with a wide straight edge, at least six to eight feet wide. Cover ends with a germination sheet and thoroughly water. Keep damp and the seed should
germinate within five to seven days.
Another technique is very similar to the above and very useful if you do not have deep holes. Irrigate both batting ends thoroughly. When soaked in, make thousands of holes by using a sarrel roller in several directions. Apply a generous helping of seed, lightly topdress the whole area, again using a long straight edge to level off. Cover and keep well watered. Again, the seed should be germinating within five to seven days. If you have both the time and the equipment, then you can repair the whole of the wicket at the same time as repairing the ends. Brush all rubbish from the ends. Irrigate the whole length of the wicket and allow water to soak away. Then use a tractor mounted spiked roller/seeder. Make two or three passes of the wicket, before broadcast seeding through a cyclone type spreader and brush in with a drag brush. Do this two or three times before finally levelling off the ends and applying a couple of bags of loam, again with the cyclone, down the length of the wicket and drag brushing in. The drag brush pulls both the seed and loam into all the little holes, giving good seed to soil contact. Then lay a full length germination sheet and thoroughly water. Again, germination will usually take place within five to seven days.
This last method can be
carried out using a sarrel roller, but it will be hard work.
If you cannot cover the full length of the wicket you will have to regularly water it to keep the seed moist and
prevent it from drying out. To aid germination I know that some groundsmen use wetting agents to keep both the soil and the seed moist. If germination sheets are not available, old hessian sacking is very useful. This can now be bought at many builders merchants, as bricklayers often use it to protect newly laid bricks from frost. Whichever method of
repair is undertaken, there are one or two golden rules that must be adhered to. Never use more loam than is required when repairing ends. It is far better, in my opinion, for the repair to settle a little low than too high. It is very difficult to reduce the height of a repair, it is much easier to add a little loam to achieve level than to take loam away. Every saddle end has been caused through poor repair of ends by adding more loam than has been required. Finally, to successfully
repair worn ends, you must achieve good seed to soil contact and keep well watered, especially as the seed germinates. If a newly germinated seed is allowed to dry out, then that plant has died, end of story. Too often I get asked how to make ends grow as many clubs seem to struggle, only to find out that not enough water is applied, often enough. There is no hard and fast method to repairing ends. I have explained how I carry out repairs and, I like to think, successfully. Many others will have their own ways and ideas. The end result is what matters. What I will say though, is, a square with level repaired ends, even if not perfect, looks far more presentable than a square with unrepaired pot holes all down the ends. You are more likely to play when ground conditions are poor if the ends have been repaired than if pot holes are full of water.
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