INDULGENCES eating out
by gregory swim
Last issue we told you about the wonderful new
Gaslamp Italian restaurant, Bice, with its ultra-mod-
ern styling, and a menu reflecting the latest trends
in dining in Italy. Also brand new, and every bit as de-
lightful, is Buonissimo 2, now open in Hillcrest. While
both serve excellent Italian fare, the two restaurants
could not be more different in philosophy.
Sergio Marinelli still operates his original restau-
rant, Buonissimo, outside of Turin, Italy. Speaking
through his interpreter and charming general
Manager, Marco, Sergio explained his motivations.
Like so many other world travelers, he fell in love with
San Diego and decided to one day have a restaurant
here, and to bring the traditions of his home to
American diners.
Over several years, he acquired a collection of
furniture and décor, all vintage 1960s Italy. The
Buonissimo 2
former home of California Cuisine on University
Avenue is now transformed into a trattoria, as if in a
Truly CapTivaTing and unique
time capsule discovered along the Adriatic coast of
Italy, replete with old Italian records, magazines and
pictures adorning the walls. One guest at the eatery
jokingly wondered aloud what time Sofia Loren was
arriving for dinner. The warmth of the staff and taste
thin slices of poached veal drizzled with a creamy The origins of the dish are somewhat in dispute.
of the food are every bit as authentic.
textured sauce made from canned tuna, olive oil and But the first published reference is after World War II,
Though the restaurant has only been open a few
capers, awakens the taste buds for things to come. as a Roman dish using eggs and bacon supplied by
weeks, already word is spreading. A recent chilly
Perhaps Sicily’s most famous culinary contribution US Troops. He explains the simple preparation: Boil
weeknight brought a steady stream of patrons to sit
is Caponata, eggplant stewed with tomato, olives, pasta, pour off most of the water, add unsmoked
at vintage tables and chairs in the storefront dining
caper, and pine nuts. Most often served cool, here it is Italian style bacon, eggs, garlic, and grated Pecorino
room, complete with an Italian pay phone on one
warm, and it releases all the more flavor for it. Romano cheese – and nothing more, other than a
wall; or in the covered and heated rear patio dining
Sergio explains that with the long history of grind or two of black pepper. The result, as served at
area with its black-and-white 1960s TV showing clas-
Italians emigrating to other parts of the world, the Buonissimo, is simple and spectacularly delicious.
sic Italian films.
original recipes from the different regions have The several pasta preparations offered here fol-
But it’s the food that is really captivating.
slowly changed. So what many people think of as low the same strict guidelines. Pasta Pesto has just
Sergio has assembled a selection of time-honored
Italian food is sometimes distant from the original. A the right balance of flavors. The sauce is so creamy
Italian recipes. A starter of Vitello Tonnato, with
great example is Spaghetti Carbonara. smooth in texture one diner was overheard won-
50 RAGE monthly | january 2010
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