Muzita Bistro
4651 Park Boulevard
San Diego, CA 92116
Reservations: 619.546.7900
Remember the early ‘90s when sushi was the
www.muzita.com
“it-food” that urbanites would rave about? As far as
Sunday through Thursday
5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
popularity, Abyssinia has stolen the trendy spotlight
Friday and Saturday around here. One of its staples is sure to be the next
5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
health food hit. It’s a grain called teff. Being the
Closed Monday
world’s smallest grain certainly hasn’t detracted
from its remarkable attributes. It takes 150 pieces
of teff to equal one piece of wheat grain, but if you
plant one pound of it, you’ll have about a ton of
grain in one month. Naturally gluten free by itself,
it’s amazing that it hasn’t found its way into western
Teff Encrusted Bambya Mitmita (left), Kitfo (center) and Ajibo (right)
cuisine sooner. Its primary use in Abyssinian culture
is in the versatile Injera—a large spongy sourdough
crepe torn into handfuls and used as an eating
utensil. That’s right, throw out the forks, knives and
chopsticks.
When your food arrives, utensils will seem like un-
necessary obstacles anyway. At least that’s how I felt
when I first saw our Kitfo, a minced round of sirloin
resembling a steak tartare, heated up on a skillet with
Tesmi—a clarified butter infused with ginger, garlic,
cumin and coriander. To further season the dish
ourselves, we were given a spoonful of Mitmita, an
incredibly flavorful medium-heat red chili powder
blend, and fresh buttermilk Ajibo (homemade goat’s
milk cheese) to sprinkle on top. Most popular on the
appetizer menu is the Teff Encrusted Bamya, and it’s
no surprise. Okra is lightly fried in a whole teff batter
and sautéed in a golden pepper emulsion. Served
alongside roasted tomatoes and caramelized cippo-
lini onions, this mountainous offering will disappear
faster than ice on summer asphalt.
Tsebhi Dorho (top) and Prawn Kilwa (bottom) served with Alitcha atakilti (left) and Hamli (right)
These elegantly understated but rich flavors are
far too infrequent in modern California cuisine. It’s a
good thing Muzita serves good portions. All entrées
can be presented family style—where one large
center plate showcases all the foods ordered and
everyone can help themselves to a serving of their
fellow diner’s selections. No eating off your date’s
plate…just his injera!
Each mouthwatering entrée comes with your
choice of three diverse side dishes: Timtimo—spiced
red lentils; Hamli—braised collard spinach and on-
ions; Alitcha atakilti—a medley of stewed potatoes,
carrots, green beans and red and white cabbage. It
Berries with Homemade Mango Sorbet
seems Chef Luis Lugardo really wants us to have our
vegetable servings. According to him, all the credit fermented honey with herbs and spices. The thank the chef once again, he humbly let me know
goes to Abel’s mother, whom everyone calls “mom.” flavor is a cross between sweet sake and Muscat that Michael Lunsford, the general manager, is also
“I keep the recipes the way she taught me,” said dessert wine. a pastry chef who taught Chef Lugardo how to make
Chef Lugardo. Speaking of dessert, I wasn’t sure I’d be able to sorbet…and the famous tiramisu and weekend
Among the many other reasons to pay Muzita a handle anything else after a meal like this. The staff Kahlua cake I was too meek to try.
visit, we can also look forward to brunch offerings nevertheless sent one out to us—much like a family So next time you’re out and craving something far
in the near future…as well as a great wine happy would do. It was then that I learned how well Muzita’s beyond the usual spectrum of flavors and service,
hour. In addition to a selection of Ethiopian beers, homemade mango sorbet and fresh berries finish head “home” and enjoy the hospitality, quality and
the bar offers a traditional libation known as Mess, off a great culinary experience. Just as I was about to tradition of Abyssinia’s best.
August 2009 | RAGE monthly 59
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