LAM 8-10 28/4/09 16:42 Page 49
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latin america knowledge
Chiapas State
Mexico’s Mayan magic
As Mexicana flights help open up lesser-explored parts
of the country, Kathryn Liston finds wildlife and some
rather bloodthirsty traditions in the Chiapas region T
he sight of hundreds of candles
flickering in small coloured jars
and all over the pine-needle
covered floor took my breath away.
This shimmering halo of light illuminated
the entire church of San Juan (pictured) in
Chamula, a Mayan village in Chiapas,
Mexico’s southernmost region near the
Guatemala border. No wonder the village’s
original timber church burned down.
I wandered ankle deep in soft, aromatic
pine needles among small family groups sit-
ting on the floor and chanting softly to their
Mayan gods, with three sacrificial chickens
and Coca-cola bottles strewn around them.
Apparently, sacrificial chickens symbolise
healing and cola enables them to “burp” their
appreciation to the gods more effectively
than the sugar cane liquid they used to use.
Outside in the huge square, villagers
sold oranges neatly stacked in pyramids,
brightly-patterned blankets and beautifully-
embroidered shirts and bags. We saw
“monkey men” (village elders) wearing tall
conical monkey-fur hats and women
weaving traditional loom and wool skirts.
Our excellent guide, Manuel, explained
that villagers are largely from the Tzotzil
tribe, their religion is a mix of Catholic and
Mayan, husbands are polygamous, families
average nine children and many spiritual
Mayan traditions are still practised.
San Cristobal de Las Casas
I joined his tour in the Spanish colonial
town of San Cristobal de Las Casas, where
indigenous villagers dressed in local costume
tour the lively cafes selling ornaments and
handicrafts.
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