16.00: Coffee stop
17.00: The Archaeological Museum
14.30: View from Marjan Hill
13.00: Touch the Grgur Ninski statue
10.00: Emerge blinking into the daylight via a staircase leading to the Peristyle, the colonnaded central square of the palace and a popular meeting spot. Stop for coffee at Lvxor, a cafe with seats on the stone steps among pillars of red granite and sphinxes in various states of repair, imported (or pinched, some believe) by Diocletian from Egypt.
lvxor.hr
10.30: You’ll need a head for heights to mount the claustrophobic staircase to the top of the Bell Tower, built in 1100AD (entry £2.20). At the top you can look over the city landscape, but most striking of all is the view down into the bells below. Less vertiginous is the Cathedral of St Domnius, also located off the Peristyle (entry £4). Originally Diocletian’s mausoleum, the Christians he once persecuted destroyed his tomb and converted it into a church in the 5th century.
12.00: Head north towards the main city square, Pjaca, in front of the west (iron) gate of the palace.
Venetians took over the city in 1420 and evidence of their rule can be seen in various buildings, including the old city hall, which is now an art gallery whose recent exhibits include Picasso’s bullfighting scenes.
13.00: Exit the palace via the golden gate at the north, stopping to rub the toe of Croatian sculptor Grgur Ninski’s statue, said to bring luck. Then head west, following the palace walls for five minutes to reach Veli Varos, one of the oldest parts of the city. Grab a table at Konoba Varos (Ban Mladenova 9) for traditional Dalmatian food like monkfish tails marinated in olive oil and lemon (£11.90).
konobavaros.com
14.30: Turn right out of the restaurant and head up Ul Senjska for a steep, 10-minute climb up to Marjan Hill, Split’s green oasis. Stop at the viewing point for spectacular photos taking in the palace, harbour and distant mountains. Caffe Bar Vidilica occupies a prime spot at the entrance to this pretty park.
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travelweekly.co.uk 5 January 2017
Walk for 45 minutes to reach pretty Kasuni beach, with a cafe and dedicated sections for dogs and nudists
21.00: Figa cocktail bar has hobbit-sized tables and benches with stripy cushions arranged down the stone steps – perfect for a spot of people watching (Buvinina 1). Night owls can finish up at Ghetto, a walled courtyard bar with furry seats and bird murals, which is open until 2am (Dosud 10).
15.00: Marjan’s paths weave through shaded, fragrant forest to some of Split’s best beaches. Walk for 45 minutes around the southern side of the park, past old stone houses and tiny churches, to reach pretty gravel beach Kasuni, complete with a cafe and dedicated sections for dogs and nudists.
19.00: By the iron gate, Mazzgoon serves traditional food with a modern twist on its shady terrace (1 Bajamontijeva). The menu includes homemade pasta from Korcula island and shrimp burgers. Mains cost from around £7.50.
mazzgoonfood.com
w DAY TWO 08.00: Escape the city for a morning rafting on the crystalline Cetina River in Omis, passing through rapids, caves and waterfalls. Situated 15 miles from Split, the Omis Riviera is ringed by mountains with vineyards, olive plantations and tiny fishing villages. Viator has a three-hour trip from £60 per person, with pick-up from the Riva promenade.
12.30: Back within the palace walls, Bokeria (8 Domaldova) serves seasonal local produce and seafood with Mediterranean flair in a bright, airy space with wine bottles lining the walls. Mains from around £10.
facebook.com/bokeriasplit
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