the Islands. Most of these trips originate on San Cristobal Island in the southeast portion of the chain. This is where we board Galapagos Sky, our floating home for the week. Straight away we test the waters with a checkout dive at Isla Lobos and are given the perfect introduction to the local life aquatic, courtesy of a boisterous gang of sea lions who immediately take a liking to us. Working our way northwest on the
chart, we snorkel with Galapagos penguins off Isla Bartolome. Yes, penguins on the equator, thanks to the cold Humboldt current coursing up from the Antarctic. This is the most northerly penguin species in the world and endemic to the archipelago. Don’t pity its inability to fly in air, because underwater it is a rocket ship, zipping about with frantic beats of powerful stubby
wings as it skillfully hunts baitfish. Chasing after these feathered diminutive dynamos leaves me completely knackered. Bartolome also offers us a second
way to stretch our legs. A short but steep hike up to the top of a craggy, dormant volcano rewards us with a breathtaking vista of Pinnacle Rock and an otherworldly tableau of lava fields and cinder cones. This is a postcard perfect view for fans of violent vulcanism and testament to the nature of the Islands’ birth.
Cousins Rock Nearby Cousins Rock is a great spot for underwater photographers to break out the macro lens. But be warned… it has big animals too! Cousins looks just like a shark’s tooth from the air and is a small islet on the eastern side of Santiago Island. We dive along a terraced
A Galapagos sea lion and a manta ray, better make sure you take a wide angle lens!
ridge extending off the southern tip, beginning in 20 feet (6m) and eventually dropping to more than 100 feet (30m). This is a colourful site, especially on the eastern flank of the spur, with ledges covered in glowing yellow black coral, orange cup corals and sponges. Frogfish, longnose hawkfish, juvenile king angels, bravo clinids, blennies, flatworms, nudibranchs and octopus are just a sampling of the little beasties I spy here. Thankfully, we have the chance to dive Cousins twice, so I put the wide angle lens back on and focus on a school of barracuda, green sea turtles resting among black coral bushes, and the playful sea lions which are often present in the shallows on the western and northern sides of the rock. These aquatic puppy dogs are almost guaranteed to put on a performance. Some are even bold
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