TURKEY IZMIR DESTINATIONS I
t’s a common misconception that holidays in Turkey fall
into two categories: beach or culture. However, in recent years, the number of people heading to Izmir, on the western coast, has increased dramatically, and visitors are discovering a province which can let them enjoy both at the same time. Izmir is a sensory overload.
Whether it’s the aroma of Turkish coffee, the thundering echo of the call to prayer or flashes of sunlight bouncing off ancient marble columns, there’s always something to stimulate the senses. While the western side of the province faces the Aegean Sea and is home to spectacular stretches of coastline, the interior varies hugely, with both vineyard-
covered hills and desert-like swathes of barren wilderness. The best thing about Izmir?
It’s so jam-packed with historical sites, beautiful bays and quaint villages that if you opt to spend the day exploring a Grecian temple and then decide you’d rather hit the beach, you won’t have to drive far to find one. And you’ll probably pass a vineyard, a fantastic restaurant and an amphitheatre en route. And Izmir city, in the province’s centre, makes the ideal base.
w CITY SIGHTS Previously, it had simply been the place I’d flown into – it takes just under four hours to get to Izmir from the UK. On this occasion, I had more time to explore the city, which is Turkey’s third-most
The centre is easy to navigate on foot, although taxis are cheap and there are horse-drawn carriages
populous, although it rarely feels crowded. In the evenings, I wandered along the seafront, stopping at cafés for glasses of local wine or Turkish coffee. The centre is easy to navigate on foot, although taxis are cheap and there are plenty of horse-drawn carriages to jump into. Another must-see is the city’s
Kemeraltı bazaar. I spent hours haggling my way around the
stalls, powered by cups of thick coffee made with mastic gum. Not being a natural barterer, I appreciated the assistance of my guide, Serkan, whose appearance would typically result in a sudden 50% price reduction. Recommended purchases include jewellery, hand-painted tiles and Turkish delight. There’s nothing you can’t buy – trainers, flowers, glassware and even rabbits, puppies and parrots. My most obscure find? A stall heaving with water bottles filled with leeches. If it all gets too much, head to the Kızlarağası Han caravanserai, a smaller, calmer market at the heart of the main one. There’s a beautiful café in the courtyard where merchants once tied up their camels.
26 November 2015
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