Nails -HardGels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Despite our very best efforts, some of us are simply not blessed with the ability to grow long and luscious nails the natural way. Luckily there is a handy solution to this problem and a quick visit to the local salon or Spa can help us achieve our desired look with ease through the application of nail enhancements.
Although the liquid and powder technique still remains a popular choice with technicians across the country, over recent years many professionals have started to introduce their clients to the many benefits of hard gel systems providing them with an alternative way in which in to add length and strength to their natural nails.
So, what are the main differences and advantages of hard gel systems in comparison to not only acrylic enhancements, but also their soft / soak- off gel counterparts?
“Traditional hard gels differ from soak-off or soft gels in that hard gel is more durable and longer-lasting on the nail,” explains Cliona Sweeney, Educator for Creative Academy. “If the client wants to add length to her nail, a traditional hard gel would be more suitable. This is not to say that soak-off gels won’t last long, but they might wear on the free edge over time or may not be as durable for an enhancement.”
“Hard gels give strength to the natural nails,” adds Kerry Moores, Crystal Nails UK Educator. “They also last much longer than soak-off gels – you can be sure even if your client is heavy-handed, hard gel won’t peel off. If you use hard gel you will be able to create different designs inside and outside of the nails which gives you many more possibilities than you ever thought.”
“[Another] benefit of gels is that they self-level to different degrees, again, making the application easier. Because of this, hard gel requires minimum if not any filing.”
Once applied, hard gel applications will typically last between two to three weeks
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Image courtesy of CND (Creative Nail Design Inc.)
before the client will need to return to the salon for removal or infills. The main difference between the two types of gel – soft and hard – lies in their removal. Soft gels can be removed via a soak-off process with a special product remover, whereas due to their non-porous formulation, hard gels will require the nail technician to buff away the product.
“Traditional hard gels will also retain gloss and strength for longer periods of time as they are non-porous meaning nothing can penetrate them,” adds Cliona. “This is why hard gels need to be filed off as acetone will not break down the product.”
Decisions, decisions
Although you may already provide nail enhancement services through the traditional liquid and powder method, hard gels should be treated as a separate entity so embarking on additional training in this type of system is essential before considering adding to your beauty menu.
“I would always advise people take a product knowledge course before you start to use your chosen hard gel, as many
companies’ hard gels have very different application and consistency,” advises Kerry. “Of course the right application is one of the most important things to learn, so you can build the perfect C-curve and thickness of the extension.
“It is also important to find the builder gel which suits you best and then ensure you learn everything about this gel,” she continues. “It is best to search for one- phase gels (this means you can build the full extension from it and you don’t need a separate base gel) that are acid-free and medium density (so it does not run into the cuticle).”
Of course, the type of enhancement you ultimately recommend for your clients should always be based on their lifestyle and individual preferences. For instance, although hard gels may offer a more natural looking and flexible option, acrylic extensions are highly robust and therefore tend to last longer.
It’s also important to consider the condition and any concerns affecting your clients’ natural nails before selecting the right system. “Gel enhancements are durable and retentive and are ideal for hard, brittle nails requiring resilient protection, added length or redesign,” notes Nataliya Al-Ta’ai, CND Education Ambassador. “Clients with weak nails will mostly benefit from liquid and powder enhancements.”
Turn over the page to see the latest hard gel systems available…
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