Textiles


Meeting the challenges of today’s used clothing


2013 marks the centenary of the Textile Recycling Association, but with businesses closing down and hundreds of people losing their jobs and livelihoods it is proving hard to celebrate. Alan Wheeler reports.


Alan Wheeler Director Textile Recycling Association


T


HE HIGH value of used clothing has attracted more competition for collections, and whereas in the past it was hard to source enough original used clothing, when a collector actually got


it the quality was quite good. In recent times though there has been a shift. Supplies of original clothing have improved as the public is becoming more aware that they really should re-use or recycle more of their clothing and textiles. This is demonstrated by the estimated


collection rates periodically published by WRAP and others. However, the new competition has been targeting the higher value items. If you have walked into a ‘cash for clothing’ store with a bag full of used textiles, the chances are that the person behind the counter will pick out the items that they like the look of and pay for those items only. You will be left with the lower quality


items which you may then choose to take to a charity shop or put into a textile bank. So although anecdotally our members are


reporting that the quantity of supplies are reasonable, they are also highlighting the fact that the quality is poor and it costs too much to obtain the material. With the market being so uncertain, it


is more important than ever that suppliers, including charities and local authorities, are sensible and pragmatic over their dealings with textile collectors. They should avoid being tempted by the


collector who has popped up out of nowhere to offer a few pence a kilo more, or by offers to buy only the best quality clothing at an enhanced price, while the regular loyal collector is left with the poorer quality and lower value goods, which on their own cannot be processed economically.


Weights and measures In addition, if they do not do so already, charity shop managers should consider weighing the clothes that they sell to textile


Supplies of original clothing are reported to have improved as the public is becoming more aware that they should re-use of recycle more of their clothing


collectors before the goods leave the store. Weights and measures regulations require retailers to use calibrated scales to weigh goods that are not pre-packed and agree the weight with the customer before the sale takes place. If a collector takes it back to their own


depot for weighing on their calibrated scales this fulfils any obligation the charity shop may have, but surely it is better for them to know how much the shops are selling before the goods leave the store? Through the TRA’s code of practice we encourage our members to carry their own set of scales on board their vehicles to help their charity shop partners. Consideration should also be given to


payment terms and credit levels. With the value of used clothing still remaining high, debts can build up rather quickly so prompt regular payments to all suppliers should be encouraged. At the same time though, if a collector has


to drop their prices by a few pence per kilo we hope that charities and local authorities will appreciate that this will be out of economic necessity. Suppliers should be placing greater


emphasis on whether they are receiving regular collections and payments at the moment, rather than whether they could get a few pence a kilo more elsewhere. If a used clothing supplier chooses a


collector who is offering a higher price, but they are not turning up to collect the goods or they go out of business, the suppliers’ overall revenue is going to drop even if the headline rate is higher. The bottom line is that unless there is a


Markets for difficult grades have yet to be developed 14 September 5 2013


prompt re-adjustment of the market, we may see more businesses go under with a resultant


over-supply and a crash in prices. This would not benefit anybody.


Short term interventions With the market being as it is, we would like to see more work being done on short term interventions including a more detailed assessment of the current market barriers and evaluation of different potential solutions. This would complement the very important


work that is being delivered principally through WRAP and the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan. Much of the work being done here is


taking a medium to long term strategic view, which is vital if we are to continue increasing the amount of textiles diverted away from disposal. However, most collectors are too worried


about whether they can pay the next bill to think about where they will be in a few years. This situation also serves as a reminder


that although the market for the used clothing sector has on the whole worked well for the last 10 years or so, it is not a given that this is always the case. At the moment, we need to look after this


part of the used textiles sector, which is after all the most bulky and valuable.


Looking after the paymaster While it is important to develop markets for the more difficult recycling grades, we need to also look after the paymaster that is the re-use of clothing. The recent announcement by WRAP to


support the funding of demonstration projects to promote the re-use of clothing/textiles and electrical items collected from businesses and


www. r e c y c l i n gwa s t ewo r l d . c o . u k


the public sector is a welcome development in this respect. There is also important work being


undertaken at regional level. The Merseyside Textiles Forum has been


established for a while now and a number of initiatives have been undertaken there over the last year or so to promote the sector. The TRA welcomes the opportunity to work with the forum to develop projects further. Whereas in the capital, the London Textiles


Forum, of which I am the chairperson, has recently secured £400,000. Collectively local authorities, charities, private textile collection organisations, retailers and other organisations that are members of the forum, aim to develop initiatives that will improve the management of post-consumer textiles, (both clothing and non-clothing items), within and across London, with a particular focus on driving up diversion rates from disposal (landfill and EfW), recognising the economic value of textiles, and contributing to a positive change in consumer behaviour. I am very hopeful that we can come up


with positive solutions for some of London’s textile waste issues and that the lessons that we learn in the capital can be adapted to other parts of the country. Finally, I feel as though I need to mention


the current consultation by Defra on waste prevention in England. Much has already been written about it,


but for our part our sector needs a stronger regulatory approach with meaningful targets. Let us hope that when the final programme


for England is published in December, it will reflect the aspirations set by the governments in the other nations of the UK.


& WA S T E W O R L D RWW Recycling


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