tion tubes on the wings and fuselage. You can lash them with thread or make staples from copper wire, insert them through the holes and bend them over on the inside and secure with a drop of Gap Filling CA. Per- sonally, I prefer the latter; it’s a lot easier and more than strong enough.
Plug the wing panels into the fuselage and fit the lift strut into the retention clips on the fuselage. The dihedral takes care of it- self, so cut the front struts to length and se- cure the retention clips into the strut. To fit the rear clips, twist the washout into the wing per the wing tip washout detail draw- ing on the plans. Cut the rear strut to length and secure the retention clip.
Now you can add the jury struts. Fit them into the holes in the wings, align and lash them on the lift struts with thread and se- cure with thin CA. The struts are remov- able, so don’t glue them into the receiver tubes or jury strut mount plates. Now that the basic model is finished, do a final detail sanding to prep the model for
Materials List
Wood 10
2 5 2
10 10 10
1⁄16 × 1⁄8 × 36 balsa 1⁄16 × 3⁄16 × 36 balsa 3⁄32 sq. × 36 balsa 3⁄32 × 1⁄4 × 36 balsa 1⁄8 sq. × 36 balsa 1⁄8 × 1⁄4 × 36 balsa 3⁄16 × 3⁄8 × 36 balsa
6 inches 1⁄8 dia. dowel
If laser-cut wood pack is not used 2 3 1 1
1⁄16 × 4 × 36 balsa 1⁄8 × 4 × 36 balsa 1⁄8 × 4 × 12 lite ply 1⁄32 × 1.5 × 2.5 ply
Metals 1
1 1 1 1 1 1
.025 dia. × 36 steel wire .032 dia. × 36 steel wire .046 dia. × 36 steel wire .062 dia. × 36 steel wire
1⁄16 O.D. × 12 aluminum tube 3⁄16 O.D. × 36 brass tube 7⁄32 O.D. × 36 aluminum tube
Miscellaneous
2 rolls Coverite Microlite 1 pair main wheels 1 2
1-inch tail wheel 1⁄16 wheel collars
10 feet nylon thread for rudder pull/pull & tail brace wire
18 inches Sullivan #507 plastic pushrod tube
1 .008 × 6 × 18 acetate sheet Great Planes Light Hinge Stock 4
1⁄4-inch dia. × 1⁄16 thick rare earth magnets
1
1⁄4 × 1⁄2 × 41⁄2 blue foam or soft balsa block
1 .010 × 6 × 12 styrene plastic sheet
FLYING MODELS
In the air the Highlander is a stable flyer, and with the flaps down will fly slow enough to make landings in those small fields a breeze. Control is positive yet docile enough to make the Highlander a very enjoyable model to fly.
25
The Highlander is all finished up and ready for her maiden flights. Note the flap hinge gaps have been covered with .010 × 1⁄2-inch wide styrene plastic strips to keep the gap closed up with the flaps at full deflection. The fairings are glued to the hinge spar with the flaps retracted to set up the proper angle.
cover. You’ll need to glue the vertical tail in place and cover it and the top of the fuselage at the same time to get the fillet at the base of the fin. I used Coverite Microlite, but there are several options available. The main thing is keep it light. Then once the model is covered, add the trim scheme of choice, or you can have custom graphics made up from
www.callie-graphics.com.
Final assembly Once the model is covered and the trim is
applied you’re ready for final assembly. Glue the hinges in place on the rudder with Canopy 560 glue (or equivalent). Slip the elevator into the slot in the fin, followed by the horizontal stabilizer. Slip the hinges in place and glue with water-thinned glue. Connect the tail controls and set in the neutral position. Moving on to the wings, glue the flap and hinges
aileron in place. Make up the
pushrods from .032 diameter steel wire with a Z-bend at both ends. Set the flaps and ailerons in their neutral position, and then set up the throws using the detail drawings for reference. Now you can make up the windshield and skylight from .008-inch thick acetate and glue them in place. Add the wheels and other small parts to com- plete the model.
Set up all of the controls as shown on the plans. I also set up a 70% dual rate on the el- evator and ailerons but it turns out it wasn’t necessary. The model is so docile that what
looks like extreme throws is just fine. To set up the c.g. use the battery to your best ad- vantage. Once its location has been deter-
mined, glue a tray in place made from either 1⁄8-inch thick hard balsa or lite ply. Mount it in the appropriate location and secure the battery to it with hook and loop material. At this point, the model is finished and ready to fly.
Flying the Highlander The Highlander is a great flying model, very stable, and very docile, and the flaps re- ally do work. The model will slow down nice- ly, but like any other airplane, it will stall, so take a little time at altitude to find the edge of the envelope. And above all, before that first takeoff, double check the controls to insure they are moving in the right direc- tion—right after liftoff is a terrible time to find out something is backwards! Due to the additional lift created by the flaps you’ll need to mix a little down elevator with the flaps. Give it your best guess to start and fine tune it based on the results during the initial trim flights. Then once she’s dialed in the only thing left to do is have fun. The Highlander does great short field takeoffs and landings, she side slips beautifully and touch and goes are terrific. The only thing it doesn’t like to do is spin; it’s so light that you just can’t get it to deep stall, but you can do a nice downward spiral into those small fields.
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