The cowl nose bowl was cut from a blue foam block and sanded to shape on the cowl frame assembly. The block (above left) is then removed and hollowed out to make adequate clearance for the motor and then the air inlet port opened up. The elevator pushrod tube (above right) is cut from a Sullivan #507 plastic tube and secured into the aft fuselage section. The wing panels (below left) are
built up directly over the plans. Once framing and rough shaping is done, the servos are glued onto their respective trays using silicone caulk. The flap and aileron assemblies (below right) are built directly over the plan, then lifted off and sanded to shape. The hinges are then cut in and dry fit into the wing. Refer to the detail drawings on the plans for the hinge locations.
the cables exit the fuselage and mark it on the plans. Use those dimensions to locate the exit points after the fuselage is covered. Next, build up the cowl assembly per the assembly drawing. Begin by building the front and rear formers directly over the plans. Fit the sides to the formers and glue in place being careful to keep the front for- mer centered over the rear.
Then add all of the stringers, locating dowels and magnets followed by the blue foam or soft balsa nose bowl. Tack glue the bowl in place on former C1 and carve to shape. Then remove the bowl and hollow it out to make room for the motor. And finally,
glue the bowl back in place on the cowl and cut the opening in the front end. Wings: Build the wings directly over the plans. Begin by gluing the inner and outer sections of the main and rear spars A1 and A2 together per the detail drawings. Fit each rib in place on the spars and pin the whole assembly in place over the plans. Add a drop of thin CA at each point of contact to tack the assembly together. Now add the servo mounts, wing tip plates, leading edge and strut mounts. Cut the brass joiner tubes to length, slide them into the root ribs and glue in place.
Build up the flaps and ailerons directly
over the plans. Once the basic assemblies are finished, remove them from the board and sand to final shape. Hinge the flaps and ailerons as you did with the tail section and dry fit the parts together. Glue the flap and aileron servos into the wings with silicone caulk and set aside to dry overnight. Build the lift and jury strut assemblies
per the detail drawings. Cut the lift struts a little long at the outboard ends; we’ll deal with that a little more in a minute. Bend up the retention clips from .032 diameter steel wire and fit the inboard clips into the struts. If you haven’t already added them, go back and add the 1⁄6-inch O.D. strut reten-
The wing lift struts are hand fitted on the model to insure that the proper washout angles are maintained. A homemade jig (above left) is used to hold the twist in place while the struts are sized to fit the model. The instruments and
FLYING MODELS
gauges (above right) were printed from an image found on the internet and a plastic panel made up and glued in place. With the wide open cockpit there’s plenty of opportunity there for the modeler to go to work adding details.
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