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When we’d had enough of the coast (I suppose that’s


possible), we turned back to Sweden, a landscape rich in heritage, where much of the roadway is accompanied by the flash of water between birch. Laisälven River soon caught our eye, at times narrow


and swift, more often broad and serene. Struggling upstream one evening at the edge of a lively flow, we called it quits as our bow approached a low, bank-wide waterfall. Tired, we found the only flat land available for our tent, at the corner of a plot near a rare house. Days later, and still feeling guilty, I mentioned this suspected trespass to a fishing shop owner. He seemed


surprised by my concern. “Allemansrätten,” he reminded me. I asked if we could really


camp so close, mentioning that we must have been no more than 200 meters from the empty-looking house, technically in their garden. “No problem,” he replied, “even if lived in.” Pondering for


a moment, he added that if the house was inhabited, perhaps anything less than 20 meters might be too close. A long paddle upstream the next evening found us searching


again. Flanking a gentle flow, the forest cover was so dense, the bank so boggy, we could find nowhere to place a tent for miles. Shoulders aching, we eventually came across a tiny space on firmer ground. Pulling ashore amidst a large shoal of hungry trout we pitched our tent, overlooked by towering conifers. It was only after striking camp next morning, rolling our


tent away, that we found ourselves in a ring of stones. These marked a space cleared for a small Sami katta, a traditional tipi- like tent, and had just room enough for our own more modern version. It was hard to tell when the tiny clearing might last have been used, maybe not for decades. It left us with a sense of connection with the original Scandinavian inhabitants.


Cooler/Dry Boxes A ring of stones marked


a space cleared for a small Sami katta, a tipi-like tent


Lake Sädvajaure, just short of the Arctic Circle in Sweden, Live Bait Coolers


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offered an encounter with a more recent Sami home. We’d camped on a small island, our tent pitched on a narrow gravel beach amidst swathes of bleached dry firewood. The hours around midnight brought a stunning sunset, followed almost immediately by a clean, bright dawn. Not wishing to miss anything, we’d left the tent flap open, and as sunlight nudged another beautiful summer day across the groundsheet towards us, we set out across the lake to explore a waterfall that had roared like a distant jet engine through the brief night. Alongside the cascade, the bare poles of a modern katta sat hidden amongst the silver birch, awaiting the return of its owners with their easily transportable canvas or hide cover. With the day already advancing fast, our eyes were now fixed


on the horizon. Easing our canoe away from the shore, we left this simple home to its peaceful solitude, thoughts turned to the next lakeside camp of our own. Freelance writer and photographer Tim Gent is a wilderness


Jupiter, FL • www.engel-usa.com 1-888-272-9838


enthusiast. Living close to the sea, much of his canoeing takes place along protected sections of the English, Welsh and Scottish coast. www.facebook.com/t.h.gent.


52 SUMMER/FALL 2013


Right to Roam


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