Right to Roam
LAST WILDERNESS IN EUROPE
PADDLING THE S
Story by Tim Gent Photos by Tim and Susannah Gent
urrounded by small wooded islands, we worked our way over deep clear water, swallows swooping low and hungry over our laden canoe. We considered two tree-covered gems before settling on our temporary home. An hour later, tent up and dinner bubbling gently over a healthy fire, an ambition had
been fulfilled—canoe camping in one of the last great wildernesses in Europe. For British canoe campers, like my wife and myself, there are two problems: access and wilderness.
Specifically, the lack of either. Though beautiful, our ever-manipulated countryside is busy making a living for someone and guarded jealously. Just to step off the roadside risks confrontation. Fields and woods are tough enough to enjoy, while our rivers and lakes are often all but unapproachable. Canoeists in overcrowded England and Wales can paddle on only three river miles in a hundred. It’s enough to make a paddler cry. Camping is no easier. While limited opportunities do exist on crowded formal sites, to pop a tent up elsewhere,
and close to water, is next to impossible. It’s the same story across much of Europe. The farther east or north you travel the better the wilderness opportunities, but one area stands out, combining beauty, space and unique access arrangements—Scandinavia. Mind you, if you want to use your own canoe, it’ll take some getting to.
www.canoerootsmag.com 49
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