Wing/fuselage struts are made from 1⁄4-inch balsa (at left) sanded to a streamline shape. The completed model (above) ready for painting and detailing.
attached to the ply mounting plates in the bottom fuselage with four nylon gear clips. The gear fairings are made from 1⁄4-inch balsa. The nose gear is made from 1⁄8-inch wire as shown and attached to the ply mount with three nylon gear clips. Slip a piece of black fuel tubing over the gear wire for better definition. Glue the horizontal stabilizer to the fuse- lage saddle. Now take the fuselage pieces previously cut out above the stabilizer sad- dle, trim 1⁄4-inch off the bottom and reinstall above the stabilizer. Now add piece F5 to the top aft fuselage. Glue the rudder to the fin with the trailing edge offset 1⁄2 inch to the outside of the flying circle and glue the as- sembly in place in the slots in F5. Glue the wing in place on F3. Add the top fairing, D2, above the wing. Glue windshield former WF in place with a 1⁄8 × 1⁄4-inch balsa strip to D1. Add windshield piece W to com- plete the fuselage top assembly.
The wing/fuselage struts are made of 1⁄4 by
1⁄2-inch balsa rounded off to a streamline shape. They can be painted and set aside and installed after the rest of the model is painted and detailed.
Finishing
Apply a coat of sanding sealer to all the bal- sa parts of the model and sand smooth. Give the cardboard sections two coats of clear dope, sanding lightly after each coat with #400 sandpaper. Then follow with two coats of col- or. The color scheme I used for my model is white with medium blue and black MonoKote trim. The front part of the windscreen W is covered with aluminum Mono Kote outlined with black, as are all the side windows.
Final assembly Insert the strut into the wing cutout and
then slide them into the cutout in the fuse- lage side and glue in place. These cutout lo-
cations are shown on the wing and fuselage drawings. Pass the leadout wires through the wing tip line guide and tie off. Attach the nylon control horn to the elevator and hook up the pushrod.
Attach 21⁄2-inch diameter
wheels to the main gear and a 2-inch diam- eter wheel to the nose gear. Add an 10–6 prop and a 2-inch spinner to the engine and your ship will be completed. Be sure to bal- ance the model at the point shown on the plans.
If you have any comments, suggestions or questions concerning the cardboard Cara- van, please write to me at the following ad- dress: Chuck Felton, 825 Lake Park Drive, Lakehills, TX 78063.
Or e-mail me, maybe with a photo of your completed cardboard model, at charlesfelton @
earthlink.net. You can also visit my web- site at
http://www.feltondesignanddata.com to see more cardboard designs and building techniques.
The windscreen is manila folder cardboard covered (above, at left) with aluminum MonoKote and outlined in black. The wire leadouts (at left) pass through the ply line guide which is glued into slots in the 1⁄2-inch balsa sheet wing
tip.The Caravan(above) is a very distinctive looking design with its high rectangular wing, slab fin and long thin nose section. Letters, insignia and logos were generated using MonoKote trim sheets and an ink jet printer and Avery clear sticky-back labels.
FLYING MODELS 45
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