16
11 • I inserted screws next, starting with the drill and driver bits and finishing with the manual screwdriver, careful not to strip the heads, always working from the center towards each end.
12 • I then repeated steps seven to 11 on the other side of the canoe.
13 • At this point, I held a deck in place and marked where the inwales needed to be cut. I trimmed the inwales using a dovetail saw, tested the fit, sanding and shaving until it sat flush. I then did the same at the other end of the canoe.
14 • With the decks in place, I predrilled the last holes from the exterior inwards, using the same technique as before.
15 • I installed the decks using a one- and-a-quarter-inch screw in the last hole on one side and two-inch screws for the other holes.
17
16 • The stems on my canoe are quite blunt so the new outwales do not meet. I took a leftover piece of inwale and cut a cap to square off the end of the trim, using waterproof glue to fix it in place. I then trimmed and sanded the end. If your canoe is pointy enough, you can just trim the outwales where they meet.
17 • Using 100-grit paper, I sanded the entire length of the gunwales and decks. I made sure the edges of the inwales, outwales and decks all sat flush with one another.
18 • Then, I drilled new holes for the thwarts, yoke and seat as necessary and bolted them in place.
19 • Finally, I sanded the gunwales and decks smooth using 120-grit and progressively finer sandpaper. I wiped down, and then applied one final coat of treatment and left the finished canoe to dry in a well-ventilated area.
Now all that’s left is the long wait for spring. If you want to install wood gunwales on a Royalex canoe, go to
www.rapidmag.com/0067 to learn the process published in the Summer 2004 issue of Rapid magazine.
GUNWALESWOOD TRIM
Ash is the most common type of wood for gunwales. Walnut and cherry are alternatives that pro- vide a different look. I used four 3/4-inch-square lengths—two inwales and two outwales—equal to the length of my current rails plus 12 to 18 inches. I rounded one side of each piece with a 5/8- inch router bit. I cut two with a 1/8-inch-tall and 1/16-inch-deep rabbet to match the thickness of my canoe’s hull.
THWARTS AND DECKS
I chose cherry for its deeper color, which complements the lighter ash. My thwarts are rounded, one- by two-inch pieces cut to the length of the old aluminum thwarts. Decks have to be custom made to fit the shape of each ca- noe. I used ¾-inch-thick cherry cut in triangles about 12-inches long. You can also make handles, but the style of decks I used double as lifting points.
WOOD TREATMENT 18
To protect the wood, I treated the trim with penetrating oil. I ap- plied Watco Danish penetrating oil. Linseed and tung oil will also achieve this finish. Varnish will preserve the wood longer, but you will loose the wood’s natural feel.
www.canoerootsmag.com
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